Norcold N611 Refrigerator Won't Turn On

RamTX wrote:
Thanks a million folks-problem fixed. Never thought about the 110v ac to refrigerator being connected through the GFIC in the bathroom! The GFIC was tripped. Don't know exactly why, but it reset and the regrigerator starting working off of 110v as it was supposed too!! Thanks.

Now with fridge in 'auto' go unplug it let it swap to GAS and see that it lights off/swaps correctly.

It didn't earlier!!

RamTX wrote:
Thanks a million folks-problem fixed. Never thought about the 110v ac to refrigerator being connected through the GFIC in the bathroom! The GFIC was tripped. Don't know exactly why, but it reset and the regrigerator starting working off of 110v as it was supposed too!! Thanks.

With the GFCI tripped, it should have worked on LP and your refer should have been cold on LP overnight. If not, you still have a LP cooling problem. Doug

The folks on this Forum are awesome. You gotta love it when a problem gets resolved in less than 4 hours. Try getting that kind of service from an RV Dealer.

Thanks a million folks-problem fixed. Never thought about the 110v ac to refrigerator being connected through the GFIC in the bathroom! The GFIC was tripped. Don't know exactly why, but it reset and the regrigerator starting working off of 110v as it was supposed too!! Thanks.

Do you have a meter, or at least a standard 120v lamp that you can plug into the outlet that the refrigerator is plugged into? Maybe the trailer is receiving 12v but the refrigerator is not? Or run an extension cord from the pedestal or a known good outlet and plug the refrigerator into it bypassing the trailer wiring.

In 'auto' fridge will run on AC element IF AC Power is available. IF no AC detected then it swaps to gas. If it doesn't light off and PROVE that gas is lit then it shutsdown and locks out.

NO AC Power.....
Check outlet in outside compartment that fridge plugs into for AC Voltage.
No AC Voltage.....why? Tripped circuit breaker, tripped GFCI outlet that feds that outlet etc.
YES AC Voltage....then need to pull cover off control module (unplug ac power cord leads and DC Voltage leads from module to get cover off) and check the 5A glass fuse. It is fuse for AC element.....if blown heater element is probably shorted)

As for when it swaps to gas...

Probably need to try it couple times to get gas flow established to fridge gas valve. Gas valve is only open for 6-8 seconds during attempt to light. So if it hasn't been on gas for some time propane may need to have demand before it has adequate flow to light off
(Provided you have sparking going on....no spark then you have a control module DC issue---spark electrode circuit)

You have me confused " the fuse" in the breaker box would be for the 12 volt side (control); but there should also be a 110 volt breaker for the fridge.
Do you have 12 volts to that fuse?