Norcold...of course a fridge issue....

glennts wrote:
Whenever there were issues with my 641 taking sandpaper to the blade connectors on the board and replacing the quick connects solved the problem. In a jam with melting ice cream in the freezer, I took a 9v battery and jumped it to the propane shutoff valve(6v) on the burner tube, opening the valve and then manually lighting the burner. Oddly enough, this hack would occasionally result in the fridge returning to normal operation.

You know..I was wondering about cleaning that blade. I will now, just because. I wouldn't know how to jump from a battery to the valve, so I'll just dream about that!


Gary Haupt

Whenever there were issues with my 641 taking sandpaper to the blade connectors on the board and replacing the quick connects solved the problem. In a jam with melting ice cream in the freezer, I took a 9v battery and jumped it to the propane shutoff valve(6v) on the burner tube, opening the valve and then manually lighting the burner. Oddly enough, this hack would occasionally result in the fridge returning to normal operation.

D.E.Bishop wrote:

garyhaupt wrote:

KJINTF wrote:
Have you got a good ESR meter and a good DMM?

And there-in lies the problem. I haven't the foggiest idea what those things are. Which means, in all liklihood, I can't operate'em either. I kid you not...I am quite without mechanical or other stuff, ability or aptitude. I have test scores to prove it.



Gary Haupt

Gary I sympathize with you completely. I have an aptitude test from more than half a century ago that shows my best bet for a lifetime profession is that of a Office Clerk. I am dyslexic and can't spell, can hardly read a whole book and never did learn punctuation. Somehow I survived as a torpedoman's mate, achieved a degree in management, worked on fiber optic communications, repaired computr pc boards, built houses and now I own and maintain an RV which sure falls outside being a office clerk. So I have the tests to prove it too.

So anyway, it might be worthwhile learning(they are very simple to use) about test lights, DMMs, and some other basic maintenance equipment. My DGS says, "You can learn how to do anything on You Tube". Trying to determine if a board has a bad component, and replacing that component usually costs more and takes longer than determining that the PCB is bad and buying a replacement. Unless of course you have experience and a well equipped shop.

My tests showed I'd make a good preacher or store person. I swear it said manager, but..that was a long time ago. I became all of them rolled into one..a city bus driver.

I shall take your suggestion under consideration...I YouTube for lots of learning stuff, so...I may just do that. Thank you for the encouregment.


Gary Haupt

garyhaupt wrote:

KJINTF wrote:
Have you got a good ESR meter and a good DMM?

And there-in lies the problem. I haven't the foggiest idea what those things are. Which means, in all liklihood, I can't operate'em either. I kid you not...I am quite without mechanical or other stuff, ability or aptitude. I have test scores to prove it.



Gary Haupt

Gary I sympathize with you completely. I have an aptitude test from more than half a century ago that shows my best bet for a lifetime profession is that of a Office Clerk. I am dyslexic and can't spell, can hardly read a whole book and never did learn punctuation. Somehow I survived as a torpedoman's mate, achieved a degree in management, worked on fiber optic communications, repaired computr pc boards, built houses and now I own and maintain an RV which sure falls outside being a office clerk. So I have the tests to prove it too.

So anyway, it might be worthwhile learning(they are very simple to use) about test lights, DMMs, and some other basic maintenance equipment. My DGS says, "You can learn how to do anything on You Tube". Trying to determine if a board has a bad component, and replacing that component usually costs more and takes longer than determining that the PCB is bad and buying a replacement. Unless of course you have experience and a well equipped shop.

Old-Biscuit wrote:
OK......

Not sure why messing with the 30A fuse would correct Propane operating issue.
30A fuse is for the DC heater element.

There are 2 5A fuses on circuit board, 5A mini auto fuse next to 30A that is for the DC control circuit and then a 5A glass fuse for the AC heater electric element.


Diagnostic Screens.......
Press/hold both 'mode' & 'temp' buttons until screen displays (1) then release both buttons. Screen with then display (88)
Press/hold 'mode' until next screen appears.

Goggle Norcold N641.3 Service manual....download manual that covers your model.
(Will cover N6 & N8 models)

Lots of good info for owners. Plus you will want to review before replacing those circuit boards

I have no idea why the fuse wriggle caused it to trip or whatever, but one doesn't look at the gift-horse and say no thanks.

Ohh...'those' screens. Yes..perused them many many times. On occasion, if scrolling thru them all, #6 would be followed next by an er...but nothing else. And no #'s upon activating the screens. Just if I scrolled thru. No beeping. No flashing.



Gary Haupt

OK......

Not sure why messing with the 30A fuse would correct Propane operating issue.
30A fuse is for the DC heater element.

There are 2 5A fuses on circuit board, 5A mini auto fuse next to 30A that is for the DC control circuit and then a 5A glass fuse for the AC heater electric element.


Diagnostic Screens.......
Press/hold both 'mode' & 'temp' buttons until screen displays (1) then release both buttons. Screen with then display (88)
Press/hold 'mode' until next screen appears.

Goggle Norcold N641.3 Service manual....download manual that covers your model.
(Will cover N6 & N8 models)

Lots of good info for owners. Plus you will want to review before replacing those circuit boards

Well then..wasn't that an interesting trip....so, the power board is un-reliable, no question. It is however..or was anyway, when I was at the shop...working. The tech did lots of looking and hmmming and finally grabbed the 30amp fuse (two..one is 5, other is 30) ..which promptly caused the gas to ignite and the fridge to work on LP. The board is making a very high ptched whine that the tech says..."never heard that before"....so..I shall order the Norcold kit (has both boards) and pick it up at the border in two weeks.
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Old Biscuit...

Have you checked the 'diagnostic screens'? I have no idea where I would find screens, but the unit has not shown any codes, at all.

Does the spark electrode work.........spark, spark, spark when attempting to light off on propane? No...until the fuse got re-adjusted, no sparking.

Does main flame light at all...light then go out or not even light? No lighteee

Have you checked the 3A DC fuse on circuit board? I had checked the 5 yesterday. The 30 is kinda buried and I didn't want to un-bury it. The tech did and that was what kicked the thing off, finally.
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Tech also said that doing a hard re-set if needed would probably get me thru the next couple weeks. And so he showed where to stick the bare wire and where to ground it out.


Gary Haupt

What makes this odd is being a 3 way model- I just have not dealt with many of these. The owners manual give the priority as 120vac -> LP -> 12vdc, and that while 2 way models will give the no FL error if the LP doesn't light, 3 way models just switch to DC.

Have you tried setting it to manual LP, or are all of these on auto?

Gary.......

Don asked about the A/C Unit cause he was confused when you stated you thought you had AC (AC power).

Now that you have AC power (changed outlet) the fridge is cooling down on 'AC' (been running overnight) CORRECT??

You stated you have been having on/off issues with LP. Had orifice replaced ?

Propane is simple system........DC voltage and gas flow

You may need a new board........BUT you may only need a $20 part.
And simple to find out. Just answer some questions. OR throw parts at it.

Have you checked the 'diagnostic screens' ?
Does the spark electrode work.........spark, spark, spark when attempting to light off on propane?
Does main flame light at all...light then go out or not even light?
Have you checked the 3A DC fuse on circuit board?

Simple things......cheap

So....I have booked an hour of diagnostic services at the only RV shop within 600 miles. I have also located the Norcold 'kit' I would need to replace both boards and as soon as I have satisfied myself that boards are indeed the answer, I will order and have them shipped to a reciever at the border in Oroville, Washington.

For those that are unaware..just one of those boards is 450.00 here in BC. That's a Dinasaur board. The cost of the two boards in the 'kit' from Norcold Parts.com is 298.00.


Gary Haupt