Norcold Questions/Not Cooling

sullivanclan wrote:
I have a Norcold model N821, probably a 2003 unit that will not cool on gas or electric. (Cools some if the temp gauge is moved all the way to cold). From my research thus far, when both do not work it is most likely the blocked tubes. A few questions as I move ahead:

1) Has many of you changed out your own fridges instead of having a RV shop do it? My thought was to have the RV shop do the diagnosis and then I could change it out (if it is shot). (Since they have seen a lot of fridges they know more about the diagnostic parts)
If handy and can follow instructions.....DIY
Best to have help pulling fridge out/installing back in.
Few hours to R/R cooling unit

2) Is getting about 15 years out of a RV fridge pretty good? Seems to me it is as I have friends changing them out at less than 10. I know it has to do with a lot of different variables.
15 yrs reasonable
Some go longer, some only few years
Depends on number/length of time operated 'off-level' (damage is accumulative/permanent)

3) Any big difference in a Norcold versus a Dometic when it comes to replacing them? Quality/longevity? Anybody purchased one, or had a shop do it and knows the costs?
SAME

4) Rebuild, versus replacement? By the time to you remove, repair/rebuild, parts and labor your almost into new?
Cooling Unit----$600
New N821-------$1200
New 'residential' fridge....cost of fridge plus battery upgrade, inverter circuit, solar/generator etc.

Thanks for any suggestions....

To 'test' if cooling unit is bad
Unplug electric element leads from control board
Plug leads directly into 120V AC outlet
Run fridge for 24 hrs wired directly.
If cooling unit is working.....then freezer will get to 0*F/food compartment will get to 30s*F cause cooling will be continuously.
IF it is cooling then thermistor is probably bad or circuit board has failed