Not a TriMetric, but for $20 might be worth trying out...

I used the first two wire diagram
12v B+
Neg

And one twisted pair for the shunt sense amp reading wires

The B+ neg aka power wires can be twisted or separate stands

So for your question two twisted pairs

You have a switchboard style shunt. Mount it on clear redwood and it'll last a thousand years.

Yes.. The shunt should not touch the frame

westend wrote:

marquette wrote:
I got my meter today. What is the correct way to mount the shunt? Does it need to be insulated from the frame?

It is built with an insulator from frame. The current travels through the plate bundle which is not connected to the mounting base. Bolt it on and connect your cables and sensing wires.

?? Perhaps I misunderstood, but ...
The shunt I got has no base, insulated or otherwise.
Each end is a metal block with a big bolt through it.
One end will be bolted to neg terminal.
The other will have all neg leads bolted to it.
So it should be isolated from the frame.

I'm curious about your installations, which of the three wiring versions did you choose? Which one would use the minimum of twisted pairs back to the display from the shunt?

I have the meter and I'm waiting till I understand how to use it first before I do the install.

Ron W.

marquette wrote:
I got my meter today. What is the correct way to mount the shunt? Does it need to be insulated from the frame?

It is built with an insulator from frame. The current travels through the plate bundle which is not connected to the mounting base. Bolt it on and connect your cables and sensing wires.

I got my meter today. What is the correct way to mount the shunt? Does it need to be insulated from the frame?

okay
i got mine connected today
the mounting is only temporary, need to tidy up the inside wiring
and i need to finish the calibration
input values for the battery ampHr capacity, and present 'amphrs charge' which sets the percent of charge

temporarily i input 300amphrs charge, just so i could let it count down from there and show me my overnight useage

the good
Shows .. battery volts, amp flow, watts being used/charged, percent of charge,
ampHRS count up and down, and percent of charge number is amphrs count versus battery capacity number

the bad
does not differentiate between plus/minus amps charge/discharge (No minus sign indicator)
it only shows a positive number, even when discharging
really not a problem, because there is a charge LED/light that is on when its positive flow aka charging, and NOT on when discharging,
So.. Instead of a minute sign indicator it has a plus light indicator

tomorrow i want to do ampflow check using my clamp on meter and the new power meter and calibrate it , IF the difference is not close

the 100amp model would have been closer to my avg use model
BUT several time a month i use the BIG MW and its a Whopper, 1150 cooking Watts, 1685 input Watts approximately 140 amps into the inverter
and i didn't want to risk damaging shunt with over amps
so i got the 200amp model

That's 1.3 percent error
This is for everyday working use
Even that error is better than not knowing
This is not lab grade testing
I can live with that error

Sin Embargo (Nevertheless)

VERIFY the shunt ma versus the display. A good voltmeter (not a Frightening Harbor model) can be placed across the shunt and measure mv versus display. This is part of the reason I went with a 4-1/2 digit DMM.

Only the FIVE DIGIT DROK ammeter is accurate. I do not like the 3-1/2 digit Drok ammeters. Now I see the 5-digit is no longer available. Figures.

These rice a roni meters use off-standard ma shunts. It gets tough finding a genuine MANGANIN shunt for them. The shunts I got with Chinese meters are +- 1.3 amps error at 100-amps. Not the meter I'm talking about - the SHUNTS. Means a lot when an ampere hour or kWh function is in use. Check those shunts!