odd refrigerator issue, Dometic
the unit is a Dometic 2852, it has always worked, but at times it wont get cold.... it will get cooler, but not cold on gas or electric. sometimes it will get cold and work as it should. all t...
Forum Discussion
I cleaned the cobwebs from the rear of the fridge and made sure the vent is free of obstructions from the bottom to the top..
then I removed and replaced all the wire connectors at the board in an attempt to make better contact between the pins and receptacles
and after further testing by placing the thermometer in a tub of water and letting it freeze there, with the thermostat set to its lowest point, Im getting 22 degrees on the middle shelf of the fridge... and in the freezer the temp is -24 degrees...
I am now using two different thermometers to check accuracy and they both read the same... one is a normal 5 dollar outdoor, old fashioned glass bulb type, and the other is an industrial round dial type with a 30" flexible remote wire so the thermometer can be outside the unit while its reading the temp inside...
im going to let it run at this setting this for a week to insure the best circulation, and hopefully dissolve any crystals/obstructions that may have been formed in the cooling system...
STILL, I see no need to bypass all controls and connect directly to the AC heating element, as the unit has been working for the past two weeks without quitting and has proven that it is fully capable of cooling down and staying cold.... AND the original problem was the same on gas as it was AC power... as to whether it will quit again when we want to use the trailer, that is yet to be found out...
then I removed and replaced all the wire connectors at the board in an attempt to make better contact between the pins and receptacles
and after further testing by placing the thermometer in a tub of water and letting it freeze there, with the thermostat set to its lowest point, Im getting 22 degrees on the middle shelf of the fridge... and in the freezer the temp is -24 degrees...
I am now using two different thermometers to check accuracy and they both read the same... one is a normal 5 dollar outdoor, old fashioned glass bulb type, and the other is an industrial round dial type with a 30" flexible remote wire so the thermometer can be outside the unit while its reading the temp inside...
im going to let it run at this setting this for a week to insure the best circulation, and hopefully dissolve any crystals/obstructions that may have been formed in the cooling system...
STILL, I see no need to bypass all controls and connect directly to the AC heating element, as the unit has been working for the past two weeks without quitting and has proven that it is fully capable of cooling down and staying cold.... AND the original problem was the same on gas as it was AC power... as to whether it will quit again when we want to use the trailer, that is yet to be found out...
