OEM Propane Heater vs. Portable 1500w 120 V Ceramic Heater

2oldman wrote:

otrfun wrote:
I'm not very fond of using gas/propane heating while I'm sleeping in a TT.

But you're fine with using electric heat? OK...

I hear ya! But, hey, we all have our little idiosyncrasies and phobias. Basically, for me, it boils down to a preference for being asleep or awake if/when the moment comes. I choose awake, which I believe would most easily be achieved through the use of electricity :)

Seriously though, a year ago we both woke up in our last TT with a severe headache (a minor headache the previous morning). We suspected CO. Neither the CO or propane detector activated. The heater was off, frig on a/c, and the gas hot water heater on. We were parked near a beach on a windy night with no generators or vehicles nearby. The gas hot water heater was the primary suspect. Had two local RV dealers check all the systems out and they couldn't find anything wrong. Needless to say, for the remainder of the trip we turned off the propane at the tank before we went to sleep. Never got to the bottom of the mystery--the TT was totaled a week later in an accident and replaced.

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Bring an electric heater to Mexico and learn what forty cents US per kWh* means (sixty cents an hour for twenty four hours ain't cheap)

Data Alta Consumo DAC, rate)

The cost of Electricity in Mexico is proof positive the country needs SOLAR and/or LED's now.

You are perhaps one of the men of the hour. From batteries up to 'light up the villages'


O$S
Floyd

One of my pre-cool weather projects is going to be the installation of a 20A inlet, run through a Circuit breaker/switch panel and two or three additional outlets in the trailer for it to feed. The ceramic heaters do help, and anything they do will cause you to use less propane and will cost you less money. I'm already paying for the campsite, so the more I can run on their nickel, the better it is. I've found out that the extra inlet is really necessary. We like to run the water heater on electric as well as the fridge, add to that the coffee maker and the occasional microwave and hair dryer, and you spend a lot of time resetting breakers.

More efficient than an electric, and safer than a furnace, consider the Wave flameless catalytic heater line. They are portable or wall-mounted.

I sure BEAT this quandary with a large and ugly stick. The "heating" with what dilemma. Hehehe :)

mlts22 wrote:

westend wrote:

I've taught myself to crack open a vent at night if a propane appliance is used. Your OEM furnace is vented to the exterior but one can't be too careful.

To be on the safe side, I always use at least two CO detectors (preferably three), one having a readout of how much CO is in the air. That way, if some crazy thing happens, the CO alarms would go off before there was enough in the air to be dangerous.

If I were using a Mr. Buddy heater, I definitely would be cracking open a vent (likely two so a little bit of air goes in and gets exhausted out to ensure plenty of fresh air) because the heater uses up oxygen in the rig and the fact that burning propane makes a lot of water vapor. However, with those factors in mind, as well as making sure it won't catch anything on fire, the Mr. Buddy heaters can do a great job at heating up a RV without needing electricity or making major inroads on propane.

I have a CO detector, too. Also, a smoke alarm. What I don't need is a Perfect Storm of events where the inside air puts me to sleep forever.

I haven't used one of those portable heaters inside my TT and wouldn't use one that was unvented. Before I start breathing the exhaust gas from an unvented heater, I'll get a Hotel room.

FWIW, I use a 20K BTU propane fired Sportsman brand heater that is vented with a 3" Class B stack. I supply combustion air to the burner and also flue air to the vent stack with piped air from the outside. This allows me to keep positive air pressure in the interior. The Sportsman is a better solution for me as it uses no electricity and is almost silent. This heater is in it's third RV and has been "field tested" down to -25 f.

otrfun wrote:
Have to admit I'm pretty surprised to hear the OEM heater puts out 6 times the heat of a 1500 w ceramic (ref subcamper).

The BTU rating of a furnace is based on the burner or input rating.
You would do good to get half that heat into the RV.

Many RVs run the furnace ducting down by the tanks to provide some heat. Some even heat the tank compartments directly. I would not rely on this system below 20F unless you have a specific rating. But again the electric heater provides nothing to the tanks.

If you are going to an area with lower temps, make sure you trace out the power cord from its storage bin to the AC panel. Mine had a 4 inch hole in the storage bin to allow not only the cord to pass through but also allowed a great mass of cold air to invade the TT. Some cardboard, staples and foam sealer closed the hole. Now, my propane use is 30% of what it was.

westend wrote:

I've taught myself to crack open a vent at night if a propane appliance is used. Your OEM furnace is vented to the exterior but one can't be too careful.

To be on the safe side, I always use at least two CO detectors (preferably three), one having a readout of how much CO is in the air. That way, if some crazy thing happens, the CO alarms would go off before there was enough in the air to be dangerous.

If I were using a Mr. Buddy heater, I definitely would be cracking open a vent (likely two so a little bit of air goes in and gets exhausted out to ensure plenty of fresh air) because the heater uses up oxygen in the rig and the fact that burning propane makes a lot of water vapor. However, with those factors in mind, as well as making sure it won't catch anything on fire, the Mr. Buddy heaters can do a great job at heating up a RV without needing electricity or making major inroads on propane.

The LPG furnace in an RV operates the same and is just as safe as a gas furnace in a house.