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darla_m's avatar
darla_m
Explorer
Jul 01, 2020

Old fresh water tank spout replacement help

Hi I’m new here but hoping to get a little help on an issue.
I’m a new rv owner. I bought an old 1970s holiday rambler 25’ trailer for dirt cheap and am restoring it.
Not having much experience with water/plumbing systems and the like, I’m coming here for advice.
The freshwater tank is a large metal cylinder style tank that fits under the bed with a pvc pipe fitting to the outside as a spout. My understanding is that the water pump is actually an air pump that pressurizes the tank for water pressure as opposed to pumping actual water. (?) there is also a copper tube to the outside next to the full spout with a little valve im guessing to release air pressure from the tank before filling it.
Needless to say the pvc spout/cap of the tank are completely shot from 40+ years exposure to elements. I need to replace it but of course no one makes anything like this anymore to my understanding. It’s a combination city water spout with a place to screw in a hose in addition to a regular fill spout. Tried glueing in an attempt to seal cracks in the pvc but the city water joint (that lets water in but shouldn’t let air out) is leaky even when simply holding water. I’m guessing that if the tank needs to be pressurized to work, I really need a solid seal on this.

I’m under a strict time and budget constraint so would REALLY love to not have to replace the entire tank/pump set up.

Does anyone have any ideas/advice/resources on how I could get some kind of replacement for this spout? Is it worth trying to mess with adapting new spouts to fit on to the 2” pvc pipe going into my tank? Would modern spouts even work under pressure? I would be incredibly grateful for anyone’s advice!
  • Pressurized tanks used to be common in earlier RVs, I had some back in the past.

    You may be able to retrofit the system using a modern demand pump. You will still need a way to fill the tank and will have to add a vent. If budget allows I would replace the old galvanized tank.
  • Modern RVs with city water hookup

    The city inlet is after the pump
    Between the pump and the rest of the water system
    The city inlet does not fill the fresh water tank (it simply pressurizes the water lines) unless there is a bypass valve to open that goes around the pump
    The FW tank is Never Ever pressurized by the city water system
    Most RVs have a separate water fill inlet going to the FW tank not using the city hookup and a bypass valve and the RV water lines to back fill the FW
  • So long as the tank is vented there should be no problem but the water tank is not 'connected to a city water hose', the hose is held by hand at the inlet fill connection, when water sprays out then the tank is filled. The tank is never pressurized.
  • Hi all, thanks so much for you feedback. In reading through your responses and in doing a little more research I’m thinking I may as well replace the tank and pump entirely. I’m going to such great lengths to make a beautiful interior that it would be a shame to have terrible water quality after all that!
    I’m wondering though, on Amazon it seems that some of the water tanks specify that you should not hook them up to a hose... are there “special” kinds of tanks needed for being able to hook up to city water as well as just having a normal fill cap? I would like to be able to do both.
    Thanks again in advance !
  • I remember those types of fresh water systems from long ago. The fill cap on the outside of the trailer typically had a PSI gauge built into it. I would be very cautious about pressuring a 40+ year old tank like that. A tank that I can guarantee you nobody has ever given a second thought to inspecting or testing, and probably never had any type of corrosion prevention, like an anode.

    In my opinion, you have two options. Either retain the metal cylinder and convert it to a demand system, which will require fixing the water leaks and installing a demand type water pump at minimum. Or, replace the entire system with a new plastic tank and a demand pump.

    I would replace it with a new tank and demand pump, myself.

    :):)
  • It sounds like a Rube Goldberg device. Maybe junk the whole system and get a new tank, water pump and switch and install it properly. A fifty year old metal water tank is probably filled with rust, and who knows what else. The air inlet might be for winterizing?

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