The fridge in daughter and son-in-law's '98 Nash TT is on the fritz after working well just a couple months ago. Freezer is 4 degrees, but the fridge is in the 50's on both AC and gas. No ice buildup between top and bottom to impede airflow. We pulled the vent cap off and the coils look reasonably clean. Plenty of hot air up through the vent, though we didn't check the flue itself. We pulled the box around the burner and cleaned out some dirt and junk from there, but it wasn't affecting the flame. We used some canned air to blow off what we could around the burner.All that said, should he bite the bullet and put in a new fridge or would one of the "Amish" replacement cooling units be a better choice. Almost double the cost for a new fridge. Are newer units better? How hard is it to swap out the cooling unit as a DIY project?Thanks,Lyle

I'd go 12 volt electric.Next choice new cooling unit from the so called Amish. It can be diy

I have the same issue with a 2006 Dometic. Finally leaked all the ammonia. Been researching and looking on sales forums. Seems having a local shop rebuild with the Amish replacement is the best bet, and most cost effective. You can buy a used fridge for about the same as having someone rebuild one. If I can find a decent used one I might go that route, but hate to pay $1500 then have it die in 6 months or even 2 years. Not going the DC route, almost the same cost, but then you have to upgrade batteries, solar, etc. I boondock too much and just want a fridge to run without killing my batteries, or even needing to run the gen every day. There is not a cost advantage of DC over a compressor fridge from what I can see. Hope you find a good repair shop.

25 years on the original fridge is very good so it is not surprising if the cooling unit is toast. There are several u-tube videos that show people changing the cooling units. I will not hesitate to change my own if I need to before I get too old.

pianotuna wrote:I'd go 12 volt electric.Next choice new cooling unit from the so called Amish. It can be diyI am with them musical fish on thisThere are some very nice 12 volt or 12/120 volt Compressor units that draw LESS THAN FIFTY WATTS with the door closed (The dang light in the absorption units may well be 20 watts plus don't you know this gives you an idea of the power draw).I have a small chest freezer that's like that it eats 120 less I find the 12 volt cord... Had a power fail.. used a 12 AH LiFePO4 and a 300 watt MSW inverter and everythign frozen well.(Used a much larger battery/inverter pack on the Residential Fridge)I really like those high effiecency units.MAKE SURE YOU CHECK THE POWER DRAW.Option 2 is the amish cooling unit.Some years ago when my Factory cooling unit went powder up (or down actually) I got an Amish.. Impressed I was with the quality.

Check door seal. The cooling unit is working, at least somewhat, as demonstrated by the freezer. Leaky door seals are a common cause of warm refrigerators.

Older Norcold fridge issue | Good Sam Community

Gjac
Explorer III
Aug 11, 2023
Also, I see you live in Az. and the temps have been very hot there lately. My Norcold will get up to 50 in 90 degree weather but cool into the 40's overnight when the temps drop into the 70's. How long did you keep the refer plugged in? Do you have any food inside it or is it empty? In 100 degree weather any Absorbtion refer is going to struggle in those temps. Just opening the door to check it will let warm air in especially if there is no food in there to keep things cool. Before you spend money on a new one I would keep it plugged in for several days and if the fridge is empty put a thermometer in a glass of water and check the temps that way.
jkwilson
Explorer III
Aug 11, 2023
Check door seal. The cooling unit is working, at least somewhat, as demonstrated by the freezer. Leaky door seals are a common cause of warm refrigerators.
wa8yxm
Explorer III
Aug 10, 2023
pianotuna wrote:
I'd go 12 volt electric.

Next choice new cooling unit from the so called Amish. It can be diy

I am with them musical fish on this

There are some very nice 12 volt or 12/120 volt Compressor units that draw LESS THAN FIFTY WATTS with the door closed (The dang light in the absorption units may well be 20 watts plus don't you know this gives you an idea of the power draw).

I have a small chest freezer that's like that it eats 120 less I find the 12 volt cord... Had a power fail.. used a 12 AH LiFePO4 and a 300 watt MSW inverter and everythign frozen well.

(Used a much larger battery/inverter pack on the Residential Fridge)

I really like those high effiecency units.

MAKE SURE YOU CHECK THE POWER DRAW.

Option 2 is the amish cooling unit.

Some years ago when my Factory cooling unit went powder up (or down actually) I got an Amish.. Impressed I was with the quality.
Roger10378
Explorer II
Aug 10, 2023
25 years on the original fridge is very good so it is not surprising if the cooling unit is toast. There are several u-tube videos that show people changing the cooling units. I will not hesitate to change my own if I need to before I get too old.
Thermoguy
Explorer II
Aug 09, 2023
I have the same issue with a 2006 Dometic. Finally leaked all the ammonia. Been researching and looking on sales forums. Seems having a local shop rebuild with the Amish replacement is the best bet, and most cost effective. You can buy a used fridge for about the same as having someone rebuild one. If I can find a decent used one I might go that route, but hate to pay $1500 then have it die in 6 months or even 2 years.

Not going the DC route, almost the same cost, but then you have to upgrade batteries, solar, etc. I boondock too much and just want a fridge to run without killing my batteries, or even needing to run the gen every day. There is not a cost advantage of DC over a compressor fridge from what I can see.

Hope you find a good repair shop.
pianotuna
Nomad III
Aug 09, 2023
I'd go 12 volt electric.

Next choice new cooling unit from the so called Amish. It can be diy

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