Onan 4KY fuel pump replacement method?

Actually I called the shop I bought the pump from. An independent service here.
Helped me over the phone. No extra charge.

But everyone's info was a big help.

Good work! It ran long enough to knock the connector apart... and died.

I hope my "procedure" was useful in helping you troubleshoot and repair your generator.

Take care, RV ON!

Well took it all apart again.
Found the wiring block under the control board was not tight.
Secured it and now gen. runs.

I replaced the pump. What a PITA to get to.
Ran gen. Quit after about 8 min. No start. No powe at start switch.
I do have 12 volt to solenoid.
Pulled everything out checked wire connections.

Fuel pump arrived yesterday - new part number: A029F889 drop-shipped from Cummins.
A friend dropped by so we decided to do the swapout.

The procedure (from memory - no pics this time)
1) Remove 12V lead from relay, insulate with tape, pull it out of the housing.
2) Unplug remote switch harness if desired. This helps when manipulating the harness later.
3) Remove two torx screws at front edge of frame to release control module bracket.
4) Remove cover over air filter.
5) Detach two control wires from relay, remove small lead from supply side of relay.
6) Lift and manipulate control module to gain access to connector on the bottom.
7) Using a small screwdriver, unlock and remove large connector from bottom of control module.
8) Manipulate and remove control module from compartment.
9) Remove white 12V lead from other side of relay, set control module aside
You are now able to deal with the pump....
10) Pinch off fuel supply line with vise grips at filter.
11) Loosen clamp, wear rubber/nitrile gloves, remove fuel line from filter. The barbs on filter is deep, so you'll need to be fairly agressive in removing the hose from the filter. Be prepared to get a little fuel...
12) Using a 1/2" socket, remove first nut from ground stud at lower left of the outside of the generator housing. This stud is tucked between the frame and base of the genny. (curse when you hit your head and draw blood when the nut turns loose)
13) Remove ground cable and star nut from stud.
14) Using a ratchet/socket on each side of the ground stud, one inside the housing and on the second nut at lower left of the outside of the generator housing, remove the second nut and star washer.
15) Remove the stud (which is a 5/16 bolt) from inside housing, complete with yet another star washer. Several ground wires will be on this bolt including the ground for the pump.
16) Remove ground from stud.
17) Unplug pump power lead.
18) Place a wadded up paper towel under the pump output nipple, then remove clamp and hose from outlet.
19) Remove 1 torx screw from left side of pump - this is the same size as the control module screws.
20) remove pump/filter assembly from housing; remove gas-soaked paper towel. You'll get more fuel from the outlet of the pump and the inlet of the filter as you remove it.

Finally! (Light up a cigarette and pop open a beer. You'll enjoy the fireworks...B^)

21) If you haven't replaced the filter recently, it's a good idea to put a new filter on the new pump. Use a bit of paste style pipe dope on the filter outlet, or use gas-proof yellow teflon tape. Install new filter on pump.
22) Install new pump/filter assembly in housing. Right side of bracket slides into a slot; install torx screw in left side.
23) Plug in the positive lead.
24) Add ground ring terminal to ground bolt, add star washer to bolt, insert in hole. Add star washer to stud outside of housing, install and tighten one nut.
25) Add third star washer to stud, install ground cable, add last nut, tighten.
26) Install fuel line to pump outlet.
27) Install white starter cable on outlet side of relay with nut & lockwasher; orient cable in the original direction.
28) Manipulate control module into housing, install large connector.
29) Control module has a foot that slides into a slot near the pump, you can feel the slot from the underside while installing the control module. Manage two cables that are routed under the module while positioning.
30) Install two torx screws at front edge of the housing to fasten control module bracket
31) Plug in remote switch harness.
32) Add ring terminal to relay input stud, plug in two control leads.
33) Route power lead, untape terminal, (keeping it away from metal objects!) install in input stud on relay with lockwasher and nut.

Unless I've missed a step, the installation is complete. I primed the setup by removing the fuel line at the carb and placing it in a suitable container, then pushed the switch the prime position. The pump was noisy for a couple seconds at first, then started pumping fuel. After reattaching the fuel line to the carb, I primed it for 10 seconds and tried starting it. No go, so a second prime session for 5 seconds, then it started.

While it was warming up, we checked for fuel leaks, then installed the outer cover. We ran the genny under the load of the AC for 35 minutes, it hiccuped once at about 15 minutes (uh oh..) when the AC compressor shut off the first time, but never died. After shutting down the AC, we shut 'er down and called it a successful task.

So now you know what's involved in replacing the fuel pump on an Onan KY.

--Bruce.

Bruce

I have the "K" specification - not sure what the differences are between yours and mine.

Had the very same fuel starvation issue about two years ago. At that time I purchased a new pump for $90.00 while it was under warranty as compared to driving 250 miles to a warranty center.

Before I installed the pump I shot some compressed air into the carb fuel line (disconnected it by the carb) until I heard some bubbles in the gas tank. The thing has been working perfect ever since (two years now) and I still have a new pump. The pumps are low pressure and low volume and easily get clogged up.

Might want to give it a try

Upon searching this board, I read where one person found it for $50, but that may have been a substitute.

When I priced it at the local RV shop, they wanted $150. I knew I could do a lot better than that, searching online, they range from about $70 on up. I paid $70.68 + $10 shipping. I would have bought it from Amazon, but they didn't have it in stock and didn't know how long it would take to get it. Their price ranges from $80 to $100 depending on what day you look, but always w/free shipping.

Pay attention to your spec number! I ordered 149-2311-01 from http://www.partsfortechs.com, then had to call them to change the order when I realized I had a spec J which uses a 149-2311-02, which worked out to be just under $10 cheaper.

The spec letter is the last letter of the model number, for example:
4 KY FA 26100 E, where:
4 is the power in KW
KY is the Product family designation
F is the starting method (remote starting in this example)
A is the voltage and frequency (120V, 60Hz)
26100 is the spec number
E is the Specification letter (used to identify major design or manufacturing changes).

Hope that helps!

Can I ask what the $ was fir fuel pump. I have see them priced at $50.0 to $100.0+.

Batteries (Pair of 6V GolfCart) are fully charged; while the genny was running, the charger/converter was charging. (I checked on the solar charger monitor panel. The MH is parked under cover, so there's no charge from the panels.)

Gas is pulled from the main MH tank - it has venting via the emissions system. The V10 pulls a lot more fuel and requires a lot more air input than does the genny.

New fuel pump ordered from www.partsfortechs.com, it will be shipped today.

sc3283 wrote:
Bruce, 1 last quicky suggestion....take gas cap off the genny gas tank..possibly vent plugged on gas cap

With a MH. Gas comes from Mzh gas tank. Gen. Would not have asleep rate tank in this case.