Opinion on solar panel kit wanted
I received a notice of this solar panel kit. It seemed like a good deal here in the northeast. 300 watts for $500 including S&H. All opinions welcome.
Forum Discussion
Those Z-brackets are for residential installs that employ rails. If you use them as is, you have to attach them to the panel frame bottom first, then to the RV roof, and then you can't lift, tilt or remove the panel without ripping the screws out of the roof.
I am using 1/4" thick aluminum angle for brackets. With 1/4" screw into the "rivnut" that is riveted into the side of the panel frame: Here. The roof is crowned from sides to center, so with bracket parallel to the back of the trailer the vertical side of the bracket is more-less plumb. Same approach as Mr Wiz, Bigfootford and many others here used. Check their photos in the List of completed projects here. In my case it had to be 1/4" thick because I needed 4" high brackets to clear the roof vents and 4x4 don't come in thickness less than 1/4". If you can use brackets as low as 2" or 3", then 1/8" or 3/16" is adequate.
My roof is EPDM over 3/8" plywood, and the bracket foot is attached with #10 tapping screws and sealant. With your C-class the roof is - I think - different, so the method of anchoring the bracket foot will be different. Like VHB tape and/or well nuts maybe.
I am using 1/4" thick aluminum angle for brackets. With 1/4" screw into the "rivnut" that is riveted into the side of the panel frame: Here. The roof is crowned from sides to center, so with bracket parallel to the back of the trailer the vertical side of the bracket is more-less plumb. Same approach as Mr Wiz, Bigfootford and many others here used. Check their photos in the List of completed projects here. In my case it had to be 1/4" thick because I needed 4" high brackets to clear the roof vents and 4x4 don't come in thickness less than 1/4". If you can use brackets as low as 2" or 3", then 1/8" or 3/16" is adequate.
My roof is EPDM over 3/8" plywood, and the bracket foot is attached with #10 tapping screws and sealant. With your C-class the roof is - I think - different, so the method of anchoring the bracket foot will be different. Like VHB tape and/or well nuts maybe.
