Over cooling a Norcold Refer

Gjac said,

"I also added a curved baffle at the top exhaust area to remove the dead airspace"

... that was going to be my next suggestion.

What are the ambient and cabinet temps?

I think it's best, and easiest, to deal with the cabinet temps, and leave the fridge to work as it was designed to, i.e; not trying to cool the tubes themselves.

The fan is installed at the bottom blowing up at the cooling tubes. I am not at the motorhome currently but I guess the CFM is about 400 it moves a lot of air. Again I'm just wondering if it is reducing the cooling tube temperature too much causing higher refer temps. The reefer has baffles installed two within three quarters of an inch of the walls. I also added a curved baffle at the top exhaust area to remove the dead airspace and slow the air to smoothly transition out of the top vent.

Suggest you check out
arprv.com
Many excellent suggestions and lots of good reading

Ivylog wrote:
For a moment I thought we had a Norcold that was actually cooling too good. Should've known better as that is 't possible. A 4 inch computer fan is all that you need and it does not have to be at the top.

Sheet metal worker (duct work / air handling guy) here. The fan should be mounted as close to the exhaust vent as possible. If near the bottom, it will serve to pressurize the plenum, more than exhaust it.

On a hot, still day, passive cooling falls short. You need forced air ventilation, to force/suck the hot air out of the plenum. Mounted lower, the fan will encounter way more resistance in the form of static pressure, and thus be less effective.

You could also install a fan at both the intake and exhaust vents, with a slightly stronger fan up top. This is how I plan to ventilate my battery compartment. Forced air in and out.

You can get very low draw 12v fans for a couple bucks each. 50-70cfm should suffice.

Please tell us more about your fan installation.

Exact fan (CFM's)?

Where is it located?

Exhausting where?

Gap between the back of the refrigerator cooling unit and the outside wall (at it's narrowest).

For a moment I thought we had a Norcold that was actually cooling too good. Should've known better as that is 't possible. A 4 inch computer fan is all that you need and it does not have to be at the top.

If the fridge walls aren't well-insulated and you're drawing warm ambient air around it as a result of the increased airflow, that could certainly cause your problem. You want to focus that extra air movement across the heat exchanger and only the heat exchanger.

You are EXHAUSTING the air out the top, not just moving it around, yes?
A bildge fan moves a LOT of air, way more than necessary for sure. But it shouldn't cause the fridge to run warmer

Anything between say 50F and 80F should be best.

Is the fridge installed with the proper allowances, sides, back, and top? (should not just be wide open on top.)

The fan should be up near the top, in order to draw fresh air from the bottom, and quickly and efficiently exhaust it out the roof vent.

I wonder if it's drawing air around the back of the fridge rather than through it or is somehow altering the flow. For instance if your fridge is not within 3/4" (or something like that) of the back of the cabinet then air wont circulate through it right.
Where exactly did you put the fan?