Plugged new TT into 220v (wired wrong by electrician) HELP?!
good morning all. The short story version seems to be an all-to-common one. Electrician wired by 120v 30amp outlet that I requested for our new TT as 220v and when I plugged our new trailer into it last night, pop. I heard it pop inside. I turned the breaker back off and went inside the camper. None of the breakers were tripped and none of the 12v blade fuses were burned.
When I turned on the overhead 12v lights, they were really dim (but that's likely because the battery is low - hasn't been charged in a while). Is that an indicator to anything?
I spent the night searching the interwebs and reading all of the horror stories from "I just had to replace a couple of fuses on the converter" to "every appliance in the unit was fried and so was some of the wiring in the walls." (I cant' find the VOMIT emoticon but insert that here because that's how I feel right now).
So, I have a long list of questions that I would greatly appreciate any help with:
- obviously, I think the electrician should be responsible for this. He was told what to install and what we were using it for, and he didn't comply. Lets say for a second that he's not going to take responsibility and I have to turn to other options. Would either my auto insurance (of which I have coverage on the trailer) or my homeowner's policy like cover this?
- where do I start in checking/testing/repairing? I emailed Keystone to see if they could send a wiring diagram, but haven't heard back yet. Is there converter the unit behind my fuse panel with the heat-sink and cooling fan? It looks like to get to it, I need to remove the entire panel box that houses the breaker panel and the converter. Should I unscrew the square head screws that hold this box to the wall and slide it out to access it?
- I ran an extension cord from my house to the one small TV in the unit and it wouldn't power on. Granted, it was very late and dark and it's possible the my wife didn't have the extension cord plugged in all the way , but it sure seems like that TV got fried. What does that tell me? Should I expect then that all appliances are toast? Is there a solid way to test them one by one like direct to the units in some way?
- any other tests I can run on something to give more details of what the situation is?
Thanks in advance for any help.
When I turned on the overhead 12v lights, they were really dim (but that's likely because the battery is low - hasn't been charged in a while). Is that an indicator to anything?
I spent the night searching the interwebs and reading all of the horror stories from "I just had to replace a couple of fuses on the converter" to "every appliance in the unit was fried and so was some of the wiring in the walls." (I cant' find the VOMIT emoticon but insert that here because that's how I feel right now).
So, I have a long list of questions that I would greatly appreciate any help with:
- obviously, I think the electrician should be responsible for this. He was told what to install and what we were using it for, and he didn't comply. Lets say for a second that he's not going to take responsibility and I have to turn to other options. Would either my auto insurance (of which I have coverage on the trailer) or my homeowner's policy like cover this?
- where do I start in checking/testing/repairing? I emailed Keystone to see if they could send a wiring diagram, but haven't heard back yet. Is there converter the unit behind my fuse panel with the heat-sink and cooling fan? It looks like to get to it, I need to remove the entire panel box that houses the breaker panel and the converter. Should I unscrew the square head screws that hold this box to the wall and slide it out to access it?
- I ran an extension cord from my house to the one small TV in the unit and it wouldn't power on. Granted, it was very late and dark and it's possible the my wife didn't have the extension cord plugged in all the way , but it sure seems like that TV got fried. What does that tell me? Should I expect then that all appliances are toast? Is there a solid way to test them one by one like direct to the units in some way?
- any other tests I can run on something to give more details of what the situation is?
Thanks in advance for any help.
