Portable Solar Panels connection ?
I need some expertise on connecting two solar panels. I just bought two portable panels with a controller on the back of one. They are connected together like the top drawing with both Positives ...
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I have my pair of 45 watt panels wired like the bottom drawing.
Even my pair of 120 watt panels are wired like the bottom drawing. The screw terminals behind my solar panels have the ability to tightly clamp 1 or 2 wires, and that is a better connection than a wire nut and more water tight as well.
Either drawing will work fine, and you probably could not measure a voltage drop on a RV wiring system, as the lengths are so short.
Why do you want the panels portable? (Stealable?) I have all of mine mounted to the roof, where they work all the time, especially while in storage, so that be battery always is full.
The optional "Light/Radio" output should not be used in your case. I have a similar controller, and used the light output to turn on security lights that would run overnight. I installed about 10 each panels with 24 each LED 5050 (5.0 mm square) LED emitters on each panel, drawing about 0.1 amps each panel, or 1 amp per hour overnight. The pair of 45 watt panels recharged a used wheelchair 26 AH battery during the day, and ran the lights at night.
In your case, you would be recharging the RV battery with the 'output' wires. The input of course go to the panels.. .
For solar panel mounts, I cut off 6" long 2" angle aluminum from Home Depot. I drilled 3 holes 3/16" for #10 screws into the roof, and 5/16 on the other side for a 1/4-20 bolt into a nylon locknut in the solar panel frame. The nylon locknut makes removal time consuming and more theft resistant.
Each of my 120 watt panels make about 35 AH, what is consumed daily by the refrigerator, CO meter and propane leak detector. . .
Good luck with your project!
Fred.
Even my pair of 120 watt panels are wired like the bottom drawing. The screw terminals behind my solar panels have the ability to tightly clamp 1 or 2 wires, and that is a better connection than a wire nut and more water tight as well.
Either drawing will work fine, and you probably could not measure a voltage drop on a RV wiring system, as the lengths are so short.
Why do you want the panels portable? (Stealable?) I have all of mine mounted to the roof, where they work all the time, especially while in storage, so that be battery always is full.
The optional "Light/Radio" output should not be used in your case. I have a similar controller, and used the light output to turn on security lights that would run overnight. I installed about 10 each panels with 24 each LED 5050 (5.0 mm square) LED emitters on each panel, drawing about 0.1 amps each panel, or 1 amp per hour overnight. The pair of 45 watt panels recharged a used wheelchair 26 AH battery during the day, and ran the lights at night.
In your case, you would be recharging the RV battery with the 'output' wires. The input of course go to the panels.. .
For solar panel mounts, I cut off 6" long 2" angle aluminum from Home Depot. I drilled 3 holes 3/16" for #10 screws into the roof, and 5/16 on the other side for a 1/4-20 bolt into a nylon locknut in the solar panel frame. The nylon locknut makes removal time consuming and more theft resistant.
Each of my 120 watt panels make about 35 AH, what is consumed daily by the refrigerator, CO meter and propane leak detector. . .
Good luck with your project!
Fred.
