power convert how to diagnose.

The two positive and the two negative output terminals are tied together inside. they are the same. the reason there is two is two fold as well. Either the Converter can be in the MIDDLE of a wire run or you can double up on the wires for less voltage loss when charging. But that is why I said hook the meter to one pair (positive and negative) and a test lamp (100 watt) to the other

THen post the meter readings light on and light off.

hiii98 wrote:

time2roll wrote:
Power converter is simple. 120vac in, 13.6vdc out. Does the converter do this or not?

how would i know? both outs say 12v both pos and neg. Regardless if its plugged in or not, they obviously run to the battery so no clue if they are actually providing anything. Flipping breakers on and inverter on does not seem to change the reading (12v) at the wires in rear of converter.

Remove and bench test.

Post the converter make and model number while you are there.

I too suspect a bad ground somewhere. Have actually seen it on a car.

The fan is thermostatic it runs ONLY if the box is too hot. So it is not diagnostic.

To test you really need a voltmeter. Screwdriver Some protective covers (Wire nuts???) and a 12 volt light bulb with pigtail socket (most hardwares and all auto stores will have 12 volt 100 watt.

How to test

Remove all the 12 volt wires from teh converter Protect the exposed wire and make sure you know where they go (Color code or mark with tape)

In one pair of terminals lightly CLAMP the meter leads (WHen I say Pair I mean on the converter I mean one on the left and one on the right. Numbering them 1-2-3-4 I'd go with 2 and 3 or 1 and 4)

In the othe pair put the leads from the tunnel light socket Do not screw bulb in.

Plug in note voltage
Screw in bulb note voltage

Unplug and let bulb cool then remove

Post voltages to forum and let the experts rule.

hiii98 wrote:

time2roll wrote:
Power converter is simple. 120vac in, 13.6vdc out. Does the converter do this or not?

how would i know? both outs say 12v both pos and neg. Regardless if its plugged in or not, they obviously run to the battery so no clue if they are actually providing anything. Flipping breakers on and inverter on does not seem to change the reading (12v) at the wires in rear of converter.

Don’t measure to chassis. Measure between them.

CA Traveler wrote:
Since the rig is new to you perhaps your negative converter wire is actually connected to the + battery terminal.

thats my personal belief, however disconnecting wires at the battery ...only found that that when i disconnect the positive wire(AT BATTERY) both the neg and pos wires leading into the converter go to zero. Removed majority of negative leads from battery, none of them cause readings to zero out. This is frustrating

time2roll wrote:
Power converter is simple. 120vac in, 13.6vdc out. Does the converter do this or not?

how would i know? both outs say 12v both pos and neg. Regardless if its plugged in or not, they obviously run to the battery so no clue if they are actually providing anything. Flipping breakers on and inverter on does not seem to change the reading (12v) at the wires in rear of converter.

hiii98 wrote:
I have a rats nest of literally 10+ cables at the 3 batterieS, cannot test individually, but did remove a single cable off battery post that caused both neg and pos cable going into converter to go dead.

Since the rig is new to you perhaps your negative converter wire is actually connected to the + battery terminal.

Time to trace the wires and find out how the converter is wired. And somewhere down the road fix the rats nest.

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Test again

A bad negative to chassis can do this under certain circumstances. Here's a good question a direct connection of a hot negative would smoke the wire, right?

Yes, no, maybe. It depends upon the resistance to +12 and a DVM with it's very high impedance can be misleading.

Power converter is simple. 120vac in, 13.6vdc out. Does the converter do this or not?

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