Power converter on the move

Should not be a big deal. Just run some #4 wire direct to the battery.
Need maybe 70 to 80 amp fuse close to the battery if the wire feeds through any blind area or through panels etc.

8835 can be left in place if it mostly works. Just cut the power wire to disconnect. Put a wire nut on to prevent a short and to reconnect for a back-up system.

I agree with smkettner, but would fuse the 9260 at 60 amps rather than go higher. When I upgraded my converter to a PD4655, I upgraded my wiring from 8g to 4g and put a 55 amp breaker in.

It is OK to use a smaller fuse than the wire needs, but not a fuse bigger than the wire needs.

This is what I did with my WF8945 COnverter setup with adding a PD9260C some 12-feet away from the WF8900 series power distribution panel. I can have either converter/charger ON by just flipping the right 120VAC circuit breaker. I also used 4AWG battery cables everywhere.

My PD9260C is a 60AMP smart mode charger that immediately goes into smart mode by the flip of a button...




Worked out great for me...

Roy Ken

OOPS

Did that, and am very satisfied.

I had a fixed voltage piece of Cr@^. Disconnected power to converter in the power center (left as an emergency spare). Took 115 in plastic EMT to my basement in compartment next to the battery. Used Automotive battery cables from local auto store to wire from converter to battery.

PD 9260 is pretty well protected, except for where the connections are, remember it has a fan and needs to have ventilation when loaded up. I have it in the basement with no protection, you may be more interested in the esthetics in the bedroom.

Regards,
Doug

The BN TT has a WFCO converter, but since we dry camp I wanted a more capable charger when running off a generator.
I mounted an IOTA 55A deck mount to the ceiling of the front pass-through. 120VAC was tapped off a bedroom outlet and fished into the pass-through on a switched outlet. 12DC is a 3' run to the batteries.
The WFCO had a spare breaker slot so I put it on its own breaker. I can now turn either converter on or off. I'm still using the factory 12V wiring and distribution panel in the WFCO.

Doughere, brings up the important point and in turn ventilation means fan means a potential for fan noise. I certainly would not ignore the ramifications. A working converter can develop a surorising amount of heat and a fan is going to have to cool it.

Thanks for all the great input! The current unit is not connected to the panel, but I'd like to do so. Having both still connected is an interesting option. I had wondered if there would be any problem with turn the unit upside down like that. Glad to see the picture!

My husband thinks it could go in the basement -- which would be better. I only worried about it getting banged about since the locker has a lot of "stuff" in it already. It would sure be the best option, if possible. Just have to take AC from the bedroom. Which is preferable to drilling a hole through the bedroom floor (and the noise problem).

Roy, thanks for the great diagram! I had feared that changing the wire would be difficult, but it appears ours is all in conduit under the trailer, so I suspect it will be easy. Yes?

I'm somewhat confused about the fuse situation on the battery. Is this the disaster fuse I've read about? Is it just an inline fuse?

Thanks again.

Distribution panel problem. It's a WFCO Ultra -- WF-8914.




Looks like I'm real limited in what breaker size I can use. Maybe I need a new panel too?

The fan on a PD9260 is very quiet, and only comes on under pretty heavy load. Our install is similar to MBOPP's picture above; basement location (under our bed) does not allow any noise that we can hear.


Doug