Forum Discussion

cdcorpe's avatar
cdcorpe
Explorer
Feb 08, 2014

Power Max replacement board

I asked Randy at Best converter why the 55 Amp 4-Stage Main Board Replacement did not have a temperature compensation for the board & he said it was not needed because it was a 4 stage charger. When researching charges it says it is very important.Any comments? Thanks

48 Replies

  • Sorry for not being clear. I have on order a Leisure van Unity, I called the company & they said it comes with a Wfco 55 amp converter. It also will have one 95 watt solar panel with a 30 amp go power controller. I have been researching this site & everyone says wfco converters are junk. Randy recommened the power max upgrade.
  • wa8yxm's avatar
    wa8yxm
    Explorer III
    Temp compensation may not be as important as you think.. Let me look up a factor... Most of the "Generic" battery types including Flooded wet cell and AGM Xantrex uses something like -27mV per Degree C so a 10 degree change is .27 volt.

    Progressive Dynamics, on the other hand,,, Simply kicks it into overdrive every 20 hours or so for like 15 minutes. Results are roughly the same. Plus this provides a measure or equalization and desulfacation and of course means you need to add water to your flooded wet cells every once in a while (Annual when new).
  • cdcorpe wrote:
    Thanks,My rv is on order & it comes with a go power 30 amp controller, I looked at the info on their controller & it does not say one way or the other. I live in Tucson so 100 degrees is normal, so I am better off not leaving it plugged in when I am storing it at home? Thanks for your help.


    Did you mean a 30a solar controller or did you mean a 30a (120v) input powered converter, or a 30a DC output converter?

    Go-Power has a line of chargers (deck mount converters) that are made by PowerMax
  • GoPower has three modes for fast charging but floats at 13.56 volts. That might be on the high side for extended 100+ temperatures. I would tend to just charge 48 hours at home and then use a battery disconnect switch for storage.

    If spending money I would get temperature compensated solar before a converter swap.

    http://gpelectric.com/files/gpelectric/Docs/Manuals/Go_Power_MAN_GPC_35-100.pdf

    I think you probably have a 30a RV but the GoPower converter will have a higher rating.
  • Dial the voltage screw back to 13.00 for temps of (C to F) 95 - 110F

    Attach a timer to the AC POWER CORD that powers only this power supply. If temps go above 110F, charge from 1:00AM to 8:00AM

    Otherwise it is a lot easier at lower temperatures.

    This critter is adjustable. You need a meter and a tiny bit of patience.

    On the high side it is good to around -30F for float.

    The amperage capability could FLOAT a 12 volt furnace fan.

    This machine has gained quite a following.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Volt-33-Amp-Regulated-On-Board-Car-Battery-Charger-/180681552153?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a1175b119&vxp=mtr
  • You do have to keep the batteries from self-discharging somehow. If a Float voltage on shore power will be at too high a voltage, then all that usually means is they will gas more than is ideal, so you have to add water more often. Which raises the issue of which type of battery to get for that situation.

    Wet Cell batts let you add water and see when you need to do that. AGMs don't. But people do have AGMs in hot places, so there must be a way to take proper care of them.

    I don't know about living where it is hot, so over to the rest of the gang how to do that.
  • Thanks,My rv is on order & it comes with a go power 30 amp controller, I looked at the info on their controller & it does not say one way or the other. I live in Tucson so 100 degrees is normal, so I am better off not leaving it plugged in when I am storing it at home? Thanks for your help.
  • Very few brands of converters have temperature compensation. Only one but it costs you lots (Parallax Paramode) Some inverter/chargers have temp comp for the charger and also some solar charge controllers have it.

    IMO Randy meant that the Float stage, which may have too low a voltage for when it is cold out to keep the batts from stratifying, does have that shot of higher voltage every so often to stir them. So that sort of makes up for the lack of temp comp on the cold side. 13.2 is good for 80F so is too high for 100F.

    So if your ambient is hot like 100F, and you really need temp comp for your Float you can also get a special little charger just for that job (or use the solar if you have it) and use it instead of the converter for that role