Forum Discussion

RDMueller's avatar
RDMueller
Explorer
Dec 05, 2015

PowerMax Boondocker + DROK Voltage booster = nice setup

Finally have all of this put together! Very much want to thank everyone here who helped me figure it all out and actually understand what I'm doing. I have to say, I'm very pleased with this combination and put it together at a reasonable cost.

The only pricy component was the Boondocker, but I felt it was worth it because it looks very durable and will work as a stand alone charger (without the DROK) for a quick bulk charge off the generator if needed while on a trip. 60A is pretty respectable and a good match for my 2 T105s. I'll even keep it with me when I'm camping with hookups because if the WFCO happenes to conk out some day, I have a backup means to provide 12VDC.

Then, when I'm at home and charging via commercial power, put the DROK and ammeter into the mix and charge at exactly the profile I want to. Equalization charge? No problem. Desulfate? No problem.

Still want to get some plugs to quickly add or remove the DROK and ammeter, but basically this works well as is right now. Since I'm not in a hurry at home, I'll just keep the charge rate low, then the wiring is adequate as is and the DROK doesn't even get warm. Put me down as totally sold on manual absorption charging!

Both from Amazon with free shipping:

DROK

FT08 Ammeter




  • BFL13's avatar
    BFL13
    Explorer II
    Dec 05, 2015
    Actually, since the converter can do 15.5ish, you only need the DROK for higher voltages than that. EG, for equalizing certain batteries that need over 15.5v or when 15.5 is ok but it is lower than 80F ambient so the equivalent voltage to 15.5 at 80F is higher when you are doing it.

    I wish the PowerMax went to a higher voltage, then you wouldn't need the DROK. I don't know why they put the limit there. The lower limit of the knob on the adjustable goes way below anything that would be useful on a 12v battery (11v or whatever yours does) So you'd think the same amount of knob turn could be better placed in a higher range.

    I don't know what those 8v golf car batteries are charged at. Also, when I complained they changed down from the advertised 16.5v high limit to 15.5 (they have a new circuit board from before apparently), they thought maybe it would work better if I got a 24v adjustable.

    Anyway, I needed a 12v unit for regular work, so that 24v idea was no use. So in my case, I am stuck at 15.5v and don't have the DROK.

    Good idea!
  • RDMueller's avatar
    RDMueller
    Explorer
    Dec 05, 2015
    NinerBikes wrote:
    I'd definitely go with heavier gauge wire from the 60 amp power max to the DROK. with 60 amps, continuous, probably 4 gauge wire.


    Landyacht described how he replaced the 12AWG aluminum cables on his ammeter with 8AWG copper, which would help a lot. He said it wasn't easy though soldering the 8 to the shunt, so I'm sure 4 would be out of the question. Also, the DROK is limited to 12A.

    In any case, my plan is to NOT use the ammeter and DROK during high amp charging. The only time I'll be charging at high amps will be during a quick bulk charge off a generator. In that case, I'm using the jumper cables (which are either 4 or 6) directly out of the PowerMax. Clamp on for ammeter, or eventually make my own with a shunt and voltmeter as Mex described.

    Then, when at home and time is not a consideration, put the DROK and ammeter in line as shown in the pics and charge at a slower rate that is compatible with the smaller wiring size. Plugs will make connecting and removing the DROK and ammeter a breeze.
  • NinerBikes's avatar
    NinerBikes
    Explorer
    Dec 05, 2015
    I'd definitely go with heavier gauge wire from the 60 amp power max to the DROK. with 60 amps, continuous, probably 4 gauge wire.
  • RDMueller's avatar
    RDMueller
    Explorer
    Dec 05, 2015
    MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
    Check out these plugs and sockets

    WEATHERPAC

    Twin connectors allow the use of 12 gauge wire which is plenty for the DROK. Mix & match with smaller gauge wire fittings.

    Best of all, the Weatherpac connectors are KEYED so reverse polarity is impossible. They are WATERPROOF, and a simple latch snap keeps them from slipping apart like Anderson Pole Connectors do. There is no FIGHTING the terminals or connections, either.

    Use the female socket on the power source (converter - power supply) and the make plug on the load (meters, etc).

    http://www.delcity.net/store/Weather-Pack-Male-Housing/p_809144.h_809147.t_1

    This will start you out. You will need the other side of the connector, plus

    Corresponding terminal pins

    Corresponding silicone seals for the wire

    This is top quality stuff, made to last for decades.


    These are exactly the kind of plugs I've been looking for. I looked at some of the stuff they were selling at the local auto parts store but didn't find anything I liked. These will be perfect. Thanks!
  • MEXICOWANDERER's avatar
    MEXICOWANDERER
    Explorer
    Dec 05, 2015
    Check out these plugs and sockets

    WEATHERPAC

    Twin connectors allow the use of 12 gauge wire which is plenty for the DROK. Mix & match with smaller gauge wire fittings.

    Best of all, the Weatherpac connectors are KEYED so reverse polarity is impossible. They are WATERPROOF, and a simple latch snap keeps them from slipping apart like Anderson Pole Connectors do. There is no FIGHTING the terminals or connections, either.

    Use the female socket on the power source (converter - power supply) and the make plug on the load (meters, etc).

    http://www.delcity.net/store/Weather-Pack-Male-Housing/p_809144.h_809147.t_1

    This will start you out. You will need the other side of the connector, plus

    Corresponding terminal pins

    Corresponding silicone seals for the wire

    This is top quality stuff, made to last for decades.

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