Problems with Boondocker 60 amp converter
Having issues with this converter, won't do more than 13.6 volts, ever.
Forum Discussion
Guess I've been looking in the wrong place. The 500 watt "RSVP" seems to be selling for 350+ dollars. For 120 dollars, I get two Megawatts that can closely approach 100 amps maximum or say 1,300 watts. Automatic Power factor Correction is the one thing the Megas cannot touch. The 33 uf run capacitor sure helps but this adds yet another component that the buy-and-plug-in-crowd would shy away from.
This is the way the BORG works...
I see a pair of Ford diesel group 65's that make the starter motor go click-click.
110-amp hours each is a close-enough guesstimate for charging the batteries. The mechanic wants to try and start the engine so a fast charge is indicated.
I set both the lower and the upper Mega for 14.8 volts, and twist the timer to start. Hmmm. 93 amperes. Two hours otter do it so the timer gets twisted to 2-hours and I walk off. The BORG just beats the krap out of a 40-amp wheeled charger for speed.
Two hours later I return to find both batteries just beginning to bubble, as the charger shuts off. I twist both pots back to 300 just for safety's sake. The mechanic is happier than a clam. He cranks and cranks and bleeds the injectors.
Jesus has a single group 27 ciclando profundo that he used to burn 40 watts of LED lights all night while diving. More or less, 12.3 volts. I set the upper Mega on 14.8 volts for an hour and a half, and the lower Mega which does NOT have a timer for 14.0 volts. He wants to grab four hours of sleep and then go fishing for red snapper. When he returns, the upper Mega of course is finished with the 14.8 while the lower Mega continues at 14.0 The battery is 100% full. This is by virtue of hydrometer verification. He snaps the four position chicken head switch off, disconnects the battery then goes fishing.
My Lifeline has worked all night. The power has just flickered back on. Time to get the butt in-gear before it goes out again. Both Mega's get pre-set for 14.4 volts at home, but in a flaky-wired hotel room, I'll start out with the untimed Mega at 14.4 and see how it does. If the lights don't dim I'll cut in the second timer Mega and let it have at the Lifeline with 14.4 volts.
For floating in 100F weather I'll dial back the lower Mega to 13.00 volts and it'll run that way forever. The upper remains off-line.
I have actually, with my little fingers, watching a real clock, timed myself setting up the BORG for an actual job. It takes less than 15-seconds. The lower Mega is the floater. The Beta, although with the pot I can set it up to 15+ volts (Moose Tonsils Northwest Territory?).
The pot allows me to dial down to 10.9 volts to check 10-watt LED chips or in conjunction with the DROK 600-watt DC to DC booster, PRECISELY AND CORRECTLY equalize flooded batteries or power a monster 500-watt LED area fixture (equal to 1,000 watts plus of metal halide lighting).
The DROK 5-digit voltmeter and ammeter and second DROK 5 digit voltmeter after the DROK booster turns this critter into a monster power supply rated to 10 amps at 60-volts WITH exact and precise current limiting down to the hundredth of an ampere. The booster has a big muffin fan under it but I could care less to test the DROK's 20-amp fuse.
From the daintiest NiCad to the largest multi-cell battery the BORG can be configured in seconds to charge them correctly.
It can switch hats, and can be carried by it's guitar case handle.
But it is NOT a converter. Not a device that offers batteries a Stalag 13, grade diet whether the battery likes it or not. I have a WFCO 55-amp converter that will mis-perform with the best of them. Routed through a 500 ampere Shottkey rectifier the WFCO insane-asylum-grade 13.6 volt float has been tamed to 13.2 A 50-amp rated switch bypasses the rectifier if 13.6 volts is needed.
A distant solar home owner from the other-side offered a thousand dollars (10- 100 dollar bills) for the BORG. No sale. I think he's going to return with a lot more cash. With meters, switches, pots, et al I believe I have something like 400 dollars invested in the BORG. Plus a lot of labor.
This is the way the BORG works...
I see a pair of Ford diesel group 65's that make the starter motor go click-click.
110-amp hours each is a close-enough guesstimate for charging the batteries. The mechanic wants to try and start the engine so a fast charge is indicated.
I set both the lower and the upper Mega for 14.8 volts, and twist the timer to start. Hmmm. 93 amperes. Two hours otter do it so the timer gets twisted to 2-hours and I walk off. The BORG just beats the krap out of a 40-amp wheeled charger for speed.
Two hours later I return to find both batteries just beginning to bubble, as the charger shuts off. I twist both pots back to 300 just for safety's sake. The mechanic is happier than a clam. He cranks and cranks and bleeds the injectors.
Jesus has a single group 27 ciclando profundo that he used to burn 40 watts of LED lights all night while diving. More or less, 12.3 volts. I set the upper Mega on 14.8 volts for an hour and a half, and the lower Mega which does NOT have a timer for 14.0 volts. He wants to grab four hours of sleep and then go fishing for red snapper. When he returns, the upper Mega of course is finished with the 14.8 while the lower Mega continues at 14.0 The battery is 100% full. This is by virtue of hydrometer verification. He snaps the four position chicken head switch off, disconnects the battery then goes fishing.
My Lifeline has worked all night. The power has just flickered back on. Time to get the butt in-gear before it goes out again. Both Mega's get pre-set for 14.4 volts at home, but in a flaky-wired hotel room, I'll start out with the untimed Mega at 14.4 and see how it does. If the lights don't dim I'll cut in the second timer Mega and let it have at the Lifeline with 14.4 volts.
For floating in 100F weather I'll dial back the lower Mega to 13.00 volts and it'll run that way forever. The upper remains off-line.
I have actually, with my little fingers, watching a real clock, timed myself setting up the BORG for an actual job. It takes less than 15-seconds. The lower Mega is the floater. The Beta, although with the pot I can set it up to 15+ volts (Moose Tonsils Northwest Territory?).
The pot allows me to dial down to 10.9 volts to check 10-watt LED chips or in conjunction with the DROK 600-watt DC to DC booster, PRECISELY AND CORRECTLY equalize flooded batteries or power a monster 500-watt LED area fixture (equal to 1,000 watts plus of metal halide lighting).
The DROK 5-digit voltmeter and ammeter and second DROK 5 digit voltmeter after the DROK booster turns this critter into a monster power supply rated to 10 amps at 60-volts WITH exact and precise current limiting down to the hundredth of an ampere. The booster has a big muffin fan under it but I could care less to test the DROK's 20-amp fuse.
From the daintiest NiCad to the largest multi-cell battery the BORG can be configured in seconds to charge them correctly.
It can switch hats, and can be carried by it's guitar case handle.
But it is NOT a converter. Not a device that offers batteries a Stalag 13, grade diet whether the battery likes it or not. I have a WFCO 55-amp converter that will mis-perform with the best of them. Routed through a 500 ampere Shottkey rectifier the WFCO insane-asylum-grade 13.6 volt float has been tamed to 13.2 A 50-amp rated switch bypasses the rectifier if 13.6 volts is needed.
A distant solar home owner from the other-side offered a thousand dollars (10- 100 dollar bills) for the BORG. No sale. I think he's going to return with a lot more cash. With meters, switches, pots, et al I believe I have something like 400 dollars invested in the BORG. Plus a lot of labor.
