Propane install

Go "shopping" at an RV dealer. Look under the new units to see how they did propane. Do what they did. My 2017 Airstream has rubber hose to black pipe to copper when it T's off to the appliances.

My supposition is that propane must be run outside in case of leaks. (My Airstream has an enclosed belly and everything BUT propane is inside. The propane is outside.) Copper is too soft to run outside because rocks and crud being thrown up can puncture it, so they use black pipe. Then they switch to copper when T'ing up into the trailer for flexibility. The copper run for the 2 inches to get up into the trailer is short enough to not be a significant risk.

that doesn't really help.. I'm pretty good at building, I've done propane before too I just don't know specific code for vehicles, and don't know what fitting to get. so id ask here. I cannot afford to hire a person, I have to do 100% of it. I'm being told by different people I need rigid, other say non rigid, others say 100% copper lines. Im going to Home Depot tomorrow and will ask around, I'm not actually hooking anything up yet I just want to lay the lines down under the floor before I put the floor down for good. all I'm trying to figure out is the fittings/hoses needed, I will probably build my brass T.

basically, ill just have the propane lines laying under the floor ready to be connected when I figure out what I need. I always, always take the time to learn what I need but I am in a unique situation. the place I live I am not technically allowed a motorhome, or to work on my vehicle at all. the entire thing is in pieces in the yard, and I am VERY pressed for time. not to mention the tail lights/marker lights aren't even wired yet, and I know I should do it before putting the floor on but its one more thing I don't have time to learn at the moment. it sucks but it is what it is, ill have to do it afterwards tediously.

For the tank, brackets or a base that attaches to the tank can be done with no welding.

I can tell from your plumbing choices, linked above, that you're inexperienced with propane systems. I'd suggest to hire this out or get experienced help. Pressurized gas carried on the road is nothing to mess with. One mistake and it will be a mess.

If you want to tackle it, use black iron pipe and tee off to soft copper, thence to appliances. As was stated, it's been done this way for years and meets safety requirements.

In general it's the much slandered RVIA seal, AKA the certification that NFPA 1192 is met.

It's a multiple discipline, electric, fire safety, LP / gas, and some plumbing.

If you're feeling a little insomnia coming on you do some reading here.


If you can make out the wording it becomes self-evident.



While it may never come up, technically, yes, you would be refused a site. You may also have issues with legal liability if something ever happened.

well from the outside it will look like the original camper, even worse actually since it will be missing paint now from removing caulk. the original panels and windows are going back on.

ah I didn't know any of this propane stuff, I'm a stickler for code so if it needs doing, ill be doing it. do you need to provide proof of all of this to stay at campgrounds? 99% of the time ill be off grid but that 1% of the time id love to not run into surprises. also, the tank thats coming has mounts that are one inch shorter than what I need. not sure what to do might I have to weld?

As long as you're just boondocking or using it on your own land or something it's not required, but legally if you're plugged in to electricity and it has an LP system and you plan on sleeping in it, it has to be certified as to the 'life safety' systems such as electricity, LP or gas, and the LP, CO, and or smoke detectors.

If it looks like a factory unit you might fly under the radar, but don't be surprised if campgrounds won't rent you a site for your "2017 Mako Kupo" brand RV. They won't want to risk issues for a few bucks rent.

If your not familiar with gas/propane you might consider dropping in and talking with a commercial propane dealer. I use a commercial outfit called Suburban propane who I use to fill my propane tank, check for leaks etc. I suspect they could re-plumb my propane system without much effort and the charge would probably be reasonable. Doesn't cost anything to talk to them.

sign off? I was just going to go to the dmv, register it, and be off. I asked them and they said all I needed was a few papers to register it, bill of sale and the vin number. I think I don't need an inspection but I'm not sure, its 40 years old

Mako Kupo wrote:

I have a 30 pound, 40 year old ASME propane tank that I immediately removed and will be scrapping. so, I ordered this bad boy for the rebuild.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HTN3GSY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm not sure what else I need with it, I have an Atwood hot water heater(new), a gas range(have an old one, haven't looked to see if I need new yet but it looks okay), and my wave 8 furnace. I've read the bigger the tank generally peaking, the more output pressure and the more things you can have running at once.

I would highly recommend you approach whoever you are going to get to sign off on the unit and ask THEM what they’d want to see.

It will also be better to get the inspection done before you close everything up in case you have to make changes.

The REGULATOR size determines how many things you can run at once. NOT the volume size of the LP tank. Most LP regulators are rated at 210,000 BTU which will be about double what you will be running all at once. Doug