Due to a slow leak at one tank, I cleaned the seals on my propane tanks and also replaced the old, stiff pigtails. I have used soapy water on connections in the propane compartment and cannot detect any leaks. If I open a propane tank valve I see green on the regulator. When I close the valve the green mark will stay for at least a couple of hours and then the regulator will turn to red. Once the green stayed overnight but changed to red again the next day. Is this some normal bleed out of the regulator or do I have a leak somewhere? At this point I have no idea what to check.

mine does that too but I don't know if it is normal. :h

If you can't smell it, it ain't much of a leak. And if you can't find anything w/ a soapy tester, there ain't no leak.I myself,......if I can't smell it, it ain't leakin.

It should not go red in 24 hours. That indicates there is a leak IN THE SYSTEM, not at the tank area. You need the system Manometer tested by a professional. Doug

Sounds reassuring, but why does the pressure decrease in a few hours?

Check/soap the connections under the rig.

Propane leak test | Good Sam Community

20 Replies

Chris_Bryant
Explorer II
May 20, 2015
JimK-NY wrote:
Thanks. If I understand the manometer will show the drop in pressure but not the volume rate of leakage.

In a way it does show the rate- no drop from an 8" water column movement in 3 minutes means the leak is small enough to be inconsequential (some states call for up to 15 minutes- the time I use for testing). The trouble with watching the changeover indicator is that you have a volume of high pressure LP in the pigtails, which can keep the pressure up even with a leak.
JimK-NY
Explorer II
May 20, 2015
Thanks. If I understand the manometer will show the drop in pressure but not the volume rate of leakage. Anyway it sounds like there will always be some leaking due to the valves on the furnace and HW heater. I guess I should be able to see those leaks with soap testing. I will give it another try. I was thinking that the leak was at the regulator.
Chris_Bryant
Explorer II
May 20, 2015
You are always going to have a small leak- the solenoid valves on appliances do not seal perfectly- ANSI standards call for less than 240 cc/hr leakage as being acceptable.
The reason for using a manometer is so you can quantify the leak to make certain is is within allowable limits- something that you cannot do using the changeover indicator.
JimK-NY
Explorer II
May 20, 2015
Thanks but I don't see a reason to build and install a manometer. I already know I have a slow leak. I just finished soap testing all of the connections I could see or reach. I think I checked every connection except within the furnace compartment since I did not remove the door. I think there is a vent on the back of the regulator that I still need to check. I tried before but probably need to try again with a mirror and flashlight.
beemerphile1
Explorer
May 20, 2015
Look at this link, build a DIY manometer, and check for leaks according to the instructions.
http://www.rverscorner.com/manometer.html
azrving
Explorer
May 20, 2015
Check/soap the connections under the rig.
JimK-NY
Explorer II
May 20, 2015
Sounds reassuring, but why does the pressure decrease in a few hours?
dougrainer
Nomad
May 20, 2015
It should not go red in 24 hours. That indicates there is a leak IN THE SYSTEM, not at the tank area. You need the system Manometer tested by a professional. Doug
RJsfishin
Explorer
May 20, 2015
If you can't smell it, it ain't much of a leak. And if you can't find anything w/ a soapy tester, there ain't no leak.
I myself,......if I can't smell it, it ain't leakin.
Dave_H_M
Explorer II
May 20, 2015
mine does that too but I don't know if it is normal. :h

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Propane leak test

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