Propane Regulator - BBQ style

NFPA 1192 This standard establishes fire and life safety criteria for recreational vehicles to provide protection from loss of life from fire and explosion.

drsteve wrote:
Not sure why you asked, from the tone of your replies it's obvious you're going to do what you want. Carry on.

The forums can be a good source of info from people who have done or experienced something that another is considering. Often someone will have quite a bit of info already, but put up a post just to make sure that nothing is missing or to make sure nothing has been overlooked.
This post got into useless info and grand opinions pretty quick.
Look at this other forum on the same topic and how it stayed on point and had useful info https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/tow-rigs-trailers/860069-propane-regulators-campers.html

While it is appreciated to see others trying to think of something helpful it just becomes static at the end of the day with so many posting replies already there.

It seems that RV manufacturers are using automotive engineer rejects to design their units, so questioning why the manufacturer did something a certain way is very wise. RVs in general come out of the factory as pure junk. Even Airstream has entered the towable garbage can category lately.

When using the forum reply it is good form to reply to strings where you have some level of expertise or sound experience rather than a formed opinion. Real world experiences are valued over this. thanks and have fun out there.

mobeewan wrote:
Something you might consider, the single stage regulator may be all you need as long as you do not need to burn more than 70,000 btu/hr worth of propane at any given time. The black acme nut on the single stage regulators are only rated at 70,000 bth/hr which is considered low flow and typically run only one appliance at a time. You might be able to operate 2 appliances inside the trailer at the same time, but not both running full blast at the same time. I doubt the water heater and furnace will run at the same time.

The green acme nuts like on the pigtails commonly used with the dual stage regulators on trailers are rated for 200,000 btu/hr and are considered medium flow. They allow higher flow for running multiple appliances at once.

Lastly, red acme nuts are rated for 400,000 btu/hr. The only place I have seen the red acme nuts in use was on a Papa John's vending trailer used to serve the shipyard here for lunch time vending. I walked by it in the shopping center where the store that operated it is located. It was an enclosed trailer the size of a race car trailer. It had 6 - 40 lb propane cylinders mounted on the front with 3 dual stage auto change over regulators. Each regulator was connected to 2 propane cylinders. That set up allowed 1,200,000 btu/hr of propane flow available for the pizza ovens and warmers inside.

Slightly off topic but:::
All the fine print about these Acme nuts is so much BS. Yes, they're supposed to work that way but in reality, they are all just junk. the BTU restrictor is simply a ball and a spring. The angle the fitting is at changes whether the ball is not effected by gravity or is helped or hindered in closing at high flows by gravity. In addition, the springs get tired after use so the restrictor closes more easily and you get limited flow under the same conditions where before you had full flow. The whole operation was created by the hand wringers to prevent the idiots from making stupid mistakes. When you hook up a "compliant" LP system you'll have 2, 3, 4, or more of these restrictors in line all waiting to cut flow when you want it or need it. My solution? Apply a reasonable sized electric drill and bit to the tip of the LP spud and drill out until the spring and ball drop into your hand. THEN, repeat for all spuds in the system. Result? A system that works well without a mess of problems wherever you are and you don't really care what color the Acme nut is. BTW, similar issues exist in the OPD valve on SOME 20# LP portable bottles, Some of these valves have a built in flow limiter and some don't, but these can't be fixed the same way. Again, overkill by the hand wringers and worry warts because one idiot made a stupid move and got what he deserved for not paying attention as he should have.

Not sure why you asked, from the tone of your replies it's obvious you're going to do what you want. Carry on.

Something you might consider, the single stage regulator may be all you need as long as you do not need to burn more than 70,000 btu/hr worth of propane at any given time. The black acme nut on the single stage regulators are only rated at 70,000 bth/hr which is considered low flow and typically run only one appliance at a time. You might be able to operate 2 appliances inside the trailer at the same time, but not both running full blast at the same time. I doubt the water heater and furnace will run at the same time.

The green acme nuts like on the pigtails commonly used with the dual stage regulators on trailers are rated for 200,000 btu/hr and are considered medium flow. They allow higher flow for running multiple appliances at once.

Lastly, red acme nuts are rated for 400,000 btu/hr. The only place I have seen the red acme nuts in use was on a Papa John's vending trailer used to serve the shipyard here for lunch time vending. I walked by it in the shopping center where the store that operated it is located. It was an enclosed trailer the size of a race car trailer. It had 6 - 40 lb propane cylinders mounted on the front with 3 dual stage auto change over regulators. Each regulator was connected to 2 propane cylinders. That set up allowed 1,200,000 btu/hr of propane flow available for the pizza ovens and warmers inside.

This thread of random answers seems to answer the questions I had:.
https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/tow-rigs-trailers/860069-propane-regulators-campers.html

ajriding wrote:
Yes, my needs are best served by the configuration that the BBQ one has, none of the RV ones are quite right. Of course this is not talking about vents, just the configuration of tube, regulator, fittings placement…

Picture is worth a thousand words.

I want to use because 6 is better than 7.

I am wondering what the difference in the two are. Should I be worried with my BBQ grill outside that it is not an RV approved indoor regulator? Will I blow up when I BBQ?
Why would I, as a non-regulated human being, need to select one over the other?
What does one do that the other does not?
Is it worse to keep my fridge running on propane while driving with an rv regulator, or to have a BBq regulator on when parked (and not driving) or are they exactly equal in the Frowny Face world?

From what I can research is that the RV reg with the 2nd, big vent diaphragm, has a shut-off feature if there is an excessive flow, and a shut off feature if there is no flow.

ajriding wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:

ajriding wrote:
So, for just running one thing at a time the cheap one is fine? But more demand will cause freeze up.It's al about preventing frost..
NO!

The biggest thing I do is heat water, and that is quite a flame, but do not usually do much else - maybe cook on the stove at the same time, or possibly run the heater in cold weather. I think the fridge is insignificant.

What I need is best solved with the style of BBQ ones, the RV store has configurations that complicate things.
NO!

Yes, big vent, little vent. The BBQ ones just have the little vent (tiny hole)

The correct regulator for your RV is the 2 Stage Regulator NOT the BBQ single stage one.
Use the correct regulator vs trying to reinvent the wheel.

You guys cant agree among yourselves…

Yes, my needs are best served by the configuration that the BBQ one has, none of the RV ones are quite right. Of course this is not talking about vents, just the configuration of tube, regulator, fittings placement…

If readers do not mind, I am really looking for the reasons, not the regulation or what you have. BBQ uses one type, RV the other. One guy says it is because of higher volume of flow to prevent freezing, the other disagrees but offers no support for reasoning. It is safe for a BBQ grill, what makes an RV so much more volatile?

Actually they are both telling you the same thing--the two stage regulator is the proper one to use. If a cheaper single stage would do the job, you can be assured the RV manufacturers would be using a single stage.

Why exactly do you want to use a single stage regulator?

More like dental work; pulling teeth.

Forum faux pas:

What is the difference between a 10lb weight and a 20lb weight?
A One is for strong people, one is for weak.
B. One floats
C. The 10lb is twice as heavy
D. Only use a 20lb weight since more is better.
E. they are made from non-recyclable plastic so you are a bad person if you use either
F. no, they are not plastic, but rather wood, so do not use it in the snow
G. You need to buy a 30lb weight, it is dumb to use the other two for 30lbs
I.My grandfather used to make his own shoes and they were heavy
J. can you show us a picture of the actual weights, I have never seen a weight so if I see your pic then I can answer all of your questions.
K. All of these answers are wrong, a weight is a unit of measure