propane stove help. and yes am new.

You are not likely getting enough charge with a 15 minute engine run.

Thanks everyone for all the help. Never had a chance to fix it but i know what to do now. Had to fix pickup instead. Thanks again.

So i went to take it off and its rusted on or just really had to get off. Feel like am going to break it. I dont remember what i did with the alarm that was cut probably put in trash. Had to spray wd40 on it. Will try again later. Its a pain in the ass you get a tool in there . Will let tou know what happens when fixed.

Ok, I would first reconnect any wires that have been cut. If it doesn't work then, you have a faulty detector, or a faulty electric valve. (to remove the valve)
All the one I have seen, have the same fitting on the electric valve as the regulator and tank have. Its just a matter of removing the electric valve, and connecting the regulator/hose assy back to the tank valve.

Ok so if i take the electric valve off. Will the hose hook stright up or do i need to get a non electric vavle to replace the one i take off? I dont know anything about propane. The wires at the valve were a different color anyway. 2blks and a yellow. Ok so bypass electric valve. Sounds like a plan. At work now will check it out tomorrow.

The propane tank electric valve is 12v operated. If it is not receving 12v from the detector, it will not open
The only way to temporary fix it is hot wire 12 volts to the valve,.....bypassing the detector.
Whoever told you to twist the wires together, doesn't have the foggiest........!!
Or take the electric valve outta there like I told ya ! There in no law says its gotta be there.

The LP detector on the floor by the door is in deed brown. The one that was cut was the alarm.
Will keep you posted

Thank you guys for all the info will check to see what wire is hot tomorrow and what wires are by the regulator. Just got back from work. So long term if attecting the two wires opens the regulator and the stove works can i just leave the wires like that?

The three wires from detector: White is normally the ground in rv's
green or black is most likely 12v check with a test light. If no voltage check fuses.
the remaining wire should go to the valve at the propane tank. As a test you can hook the 12v feed to the wire going to the solonoid valve.

Propane detectors will beep if batteries are low as a warning.

If it is the brown detctor, if it is still working, can take several minutes to warm up and send power to the solonoid. Light should be steady green and no beeping when at this stage.

Solonoid valve itself could be bad.

If it is the original detector, it should have been replaced ten years ago. they have a seven year life span.

If you find the problem is the detector or valve, replace them as a unit don't mix and match.

You can disconnect the hose at the regulator and solonoid to check for gas flow
from each component until you find out where it stops flowing to make it easier
to check.

Check any connections with soapy water when finished to make sure there are no leaks.

We'll if you have 3 wires I would not hook them all together as one is probably a ground wire. Are there wires near the propane tank regulator?? that look like they can shut off the fuel supply?? If so what color are they, those are the same color wires you want to connect inside.