2009 Keystone Raptor 3712TS. My pump is cycling on and off when using the bathroom or kitchen sink, but not doing it when using the shower or toilet. I saw someone had the same symptoms and when they removed the flow restrictors from those faucets, the problem was solved. I just don't know where to find the flow restrictors. The kitchen has a spray faucet. I took the "nozzle" off but didn't notice a flow restrictor. Can anyone point me in the right direction?Thanks,Jesse

What you experience is normal. Don't worry about it. The pump has high volume and when you don't use high volume it builds up pressure and shuts off.Your toilet and shower have higher volumes than your faucets.Everything sounds OK. Mine does the same thing.

Look for an adjustment screw in the end of the pump head.

Jesse, try this cycling is not normal. Go to your water heater, while cold, and pump on. Then open the pop off valve" the lever on the upper part of the heater" Pull the lever to release the pressure and make water run out. What is happening is the lack of a "full" water heater tank is making the pump want to pressurize the unit all the time.This is typical when the unit has set for a spell or you have drained the system.Good luckChuckOh and don't mess with the pump screws till all else has failed;=(

Actually, you WANT air at the top of the water heater. When you heat water (or virtually anything else) it EXPANDS. Water is non-compressible. If no air at the top, the overpressure will cause the pop-off valve to leak.And, if the on/off bothers you (as it does me), fit an ACCUMULATOR.

You need air space in the water heater. With pump off and low point drain open, release the temperature and pressure valve to establish the required air space.

Pump rapidly cycling only with sink faucets | Good Sam Community

jauguston
Explorer
Nov 11, 2013
Another thing that can be a problem is the type of kitchen faucet you have. Ours has a pull out hand faucet with a long flexible hose on it. DW was always complaining about low flow. I looked it over and found the hose end fittings had only about a 1/8" hole. I figured the only way to fix it was more pressure so I bought the 60+ PSI Shur-Flo pump. No more complaint (-:

Jim
Bobbo
Explorer II
Nov 12, 2013
jauguston wrote:
For those of you that suggest adding a accumulator to your water system consider this. I replaced our low output water pump with a 7+ GPM/60 PSI Shur-Flo and its instructions stated if the water system has a accumulator it should be disconnected. Recommending adding one would not be advisable in all cases.

Jim

That is because ShurFlo has added a bypass valve that has the pump recirculate water back into the inlet side of the pump when the pressure starts to approach the shutoff pressure, specifically to prevent this pulsating. Personally, I prefer the accumulator tank. It has other benefits, like flushing the toilet all night long without the pump starting directly below DW's head in the bed.
RJsfishin
Explorer
Nov 13, 2013
I have a newer shure-flo bypass pump that is not supposed to need a bladder tank, and recommended not to use one.
Well, it needed one, and it got one, and it now works like its supposed to.

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Pump rapidly cycling only with sink faucets

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