Pumping out of a water jug

I carry a 5 gallon bucket with an Gamma bucket lid on it and use this pump to get water into my tank. I have no other way to get water into the tank

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Water-Pumps/Submersible-Pumps/Specialty-Submersible-Pumps/DC-4T-Marine-Camper-Utility-Pump-2-924.axd

I made a short piece of hose to go from the pump to the garden hose fitting. all I do is drop the pump into the bucket of water and pump away. It's worked this way for 15 years. I made a 12 volt hookup to plug the pump into.

I was afraid of the tendency of vinyl to bend over time, like gas tank straws that make it empty on 1.4 tank… Then I found this copper tube, ahh, fire….

I did the solder. Should not be as much vibration as an electrical thing since it is atop a plastic jug of water to dampen it.


Had to get fitting really hot, then just dripped it in.


The copper I had laying around, so will need to straighten it and cut it to fit later.
I figure the copper will never wander around in the tank.
Homedrpot or Lowes is so woefully understocked on fittings, so I only had option of a straight fitting, not an elbow. The ACE around here has everything known to man, but too far a drive…

ajriding wrote:
I am mounting the 10 gallon tank vertical to save space. I cannot find a straw, so will make one.
Pictured is a plastic version to be changed

Yes, and I've done similar. My reason was to help draw all the water from a tank that had a side outlet. But construction looked very similar.

I would forget the copper. Use the fitting you already have, and get a piece of nylon hose from the home center. Silicone glue it into the fitting. The hose will have a bit of a natural bend to it, which is a good thing. Adjust length so it is jammed in a corner of the bottle, and Cut the end at an angle. Same idea for pulling out of a bottle using your pump.

I saw a comment that soldered connections were a bad idea on places that vibrate. The joint work hardens and fails, probably one reason why PEX is used throughout the industry. Driving down a bumpy or potholed road will vibrate your trailer plenty. The comment was on electrical joints but the principal seems to be the same tho the solder is different composition.

I am mounting the 10 gallon tank vertical to save space. I cannot find a straw, so will make one.
Pictured is a plastic version to be changed



to brass and copper.
I can solder it in and the copper straw will never bend up and miss the bottom of the tank. i will indent the end of the straw so it does not seal against the bottom.

I do not drink directly from the tank nor is the solder lead.

I always hate all the water that cannot be used at the bottom of the tank, plus the air pocket at the top that cannot be filled with water, so vertical tank will minimize the top and bottom spaces and free up some storage room under the counter.

I still plan to have that 3-way valve to pull from other tanks too.

bpounds wrote:
I wouldn't drink water from an air mattress, or any bladder not specifically rated for potable water.

Why? Same reason we buy specific potable water hoses.

Link I posted above listed bladder that is designed for potable water.
The mattress idea is a tad scary.

I wouldn't drink water from an air mattress, or any bladder not specifically rated for potable water.

Why? Same reason we buy specific potable water hoses.

I have a pair of plain old collapsible 5 gallon water jugs, with no hoses. I bought a water pump, just like the one in my RV, and put two hose connectors on it. I put a 6' water hose on the inlet side and just put that down into the jug. Works like a champ. And, I have a spare water pump in case the one in my trailer goes belly up.

Baytec is the name of the company that we purchased the bladder from.
https://www.bayteccontainers.com/60galwaterbag.html

Harbor Freight sells a pump $10.00). 2 D batteries, works great.