Purchase of convertor, auto trans switch, surge protector

time2roll wrote:
With a single group 24 I doubt this is very far off grid and in the need of a specialized adjustable voltage converter. For the described use I would specifically avoid the adjustable.

OK but it is still only $111 and you can choose to leave it in the automatic three stage mode. What's not to like?

I'd use the Boondocker like mentioned above. There is not much $ difference and you get a better warranty and somebody that will help/walk you with your electric system. We just bought the 45 amp for a truck I don't even know about lol and it too was the CL model. Even pretty new labels not on their website yet but cool.

BFL13 wrote:
Why buy a 9260 for $60 more and it doesn't even have an adjustable voltage, just three set voltages to choose from?

Because of the 4th stage (Automatic equalization) I have done research and the only two I'd suggest are the Progressive Dynanics and the IOTA with IQ4

Adjustable voltage is nice.. IF YOU KNOW HOW TO ADJUST IT. (As it happens I do) but even though I have an 80 amp adjustable.. I prefer the 80 amp 9180 with wizard because I have never seen another converter (Save for the IQ4) that had that auto-equalize feature.

So it's not blind love. it's a couple years of solid research.

wa8yxm wrote:

BFL13 wrote:
Why buy a 9260 for $60 more and it doesn't even have an adjustable voltage, just three set voltages to choose from?

Because of the 4th stage (Automatic equalization) I have done research and the only two I'd suggest are the Progressive Dynanics and the IOTA with IQ4

Adjustable voltage is nice.. IF YOU KNOW HOW TO ADJUST IT. (As it happens I do) but even though I have an 80 amp adjustable.. I prefer the 80 amp 9180 with wizard because I have never seen another converter (Save for the IQ4) that had that auto-equalize feature.

So it's not blind love. it's a couple years of solid research.

For some years now there has been a Boondocker version of the older model Randy calls a "PM4" that does that destratification boost every so often during the third, 13.2v stage, "storage".

Of course it is not "equalization", but that is what PD calls it and other brands that do the same thing have to be careful in their advertising what they call theirs.

You can get the new model with that fourth stage too if you want, but must ask for it specifically. It is a bit muddy on the website for details. Their "paperwork" is not keeping up with what is going on, but is getting there :(

https://powermaxconverters.com/product/pm4-series-2/

Rather than an AUTOMATIC transfer switch, you might take a look at a simple manual transfer switch from Sterling Power. It would let you choose between shore power, a generator, or a large inverter quite easily.

AC Crossover Switch

Optimistic Paranoid wrote:
Rather than an AUTOMATIC transfer switch, you might take a look at a simple manual transfer switch from Sterling Power. It would let you choose between shore power, a generator, or a large inverter quite easily.

AC Crossover Switch

These would work nicely for a 30A RV, but are only two pole and so would not work for a 50A RV where one needs to switch the two hot legs and the neutral. (In a typical fixed building application, the neutral is not switched, but it must be on an RV.)

The general idea of a manual transfer switch is entirely valid and reasonable, of course. I'm a bit surprised they are not more common on RVs.

DrewE wrote:

Optimistic Paranoid wrote:
Rather than an AUTOMATIC transfer switch, you might take a look at a simple manual transfer switch from Sterling Power. It would let you choose between shore power, a generator, or a large inverter quite easily.

AC Crossover Switch

These would work nicely for a 30A RV, but are only two pole and so would not work for a 50A RV where one needs to switch the two hot legs and the neutral. (In a typical fixed building application, the neutral is not switched, but it must be on an RV.)

The general idea of a manual transfer switch is entirely valid and reasonable, of course. I'm a bit surprised they are not more common on RVs.

Manual transfer switches are relatively common, they are called a receptacle and a plug on the cord. You want the genny, coil the cord in the compartment and plug it in the genny receptacle; you want the shore power, pull the cord out of the compartment and plug it in the pedestal.

That is how my Winnebago View is set up from the factory and typical of many WBO and other products.

Charles

CharlesinGA wrote:

Manual transfer switches are relatively common, they are called a receptacle and a plug on the cord. You want the genny, coil the cord in the compartment and plug it in the genny receptacle; you want the shore power, pull the cord out of the compartment and plug it in the pedestal.

That is how my Winnebago View is set up from the factory and typical of many WBO and other products.

Charles

That's a manual switching setup, for sure, but it's not a manual transfer switch, anymore than twisting a light bulb in or out of a socket is a rotary light switch.

Thanks to all for input. Only needed converter after having electrician out.