I've found a good source for a pair of new Interstate GC2-XHD coach batteries at a good price. They will replace my current Deka GC15's. The question I have concerns the post type. I can get either the high profile (UT) post or the low profile (UTL) post. Both are in stock. They are identical in all other aspects, the same price, and either one will fit. The high profile posts have the connection bolt atop an SAE-type post, the low profile just the bolt. The low profile will use a little bit less space, the high profile will make access to the posts (for measuring, charging, etc) a little bit easier. I have enough clearance. Which should I get?

My vote is for the high post, it makes access, measuring & charging a little easier. Easier is good.What would you do with the little space you save with the low post?

Thanks, gbopp, I actually thought that the low post was primarily for confined battery installations, but I also noticed that there have been forum posts by people who have purchased the low version.

Low posts will work OK. Make sure you get good quality, properly sized bolts and nuts. I would suggest stainless. Use electrical grease between the post and the connectors.

What style do you have now?Any issues with that style?If you 'high profile' will you have adequate room to remove cables without making contact with anything?

Do you want the take of a guy that used to get paid a lot of money to mess with these things before the depression shut us down?? I would (and have) gone with the UT post. And there are two reasons: 1 - It keeps the wing nut farther from the acid. 2 - It gives you a back up for when the stud snaps off. You can put a post adapter for wing nut on the SAE post that remains. People around me often notice the things I do and remark that I am rather paranoid. My response has been the same for many years. "Yes, I am somewhat paranoid, but I am OLD and paranoid." I am a waterman. Matt

Question about coach battery posts | Good Sam Community

12 Replies

Dashonthedash
Explorer
Dec 11, 2015
I cut off the tabs that were hitting the bar, and now everything is fine. No apparent reason for the tabs to be there. Thanks again for your responses.
BFL13
Explorer II
Dec 10, 2015
I hate those combo batt caps, so I got the shop to put in individual caps as shown in the photo. They have lots of them on hand from returned dead batteries.

I have a photo of the battery post that popped out under strain that was replaced by that adapter ( the adapter is "zinc plated") The threaded post is just stuck in the (soft) lead with a star bottom against twisting forces from tightening the nut, so it is easy to "pull" out if you are a spaz like me :)

http://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/schumacher-baf-wnt2-crimp-top-post-terminalstud-and-wing-nut/6000088282547
Dashonthedash
Explorer
Dec 10, 2015
The batteries went in fine, but there was one minor complication. The levers on the integrated vent caps hit the holddown bar whenever I remove or replace them to check or add water. I can jostle the cap enough to get it over the bar, but I may have to cut the tab off that hangs down from the lever arm.
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Dec 10, 2015
The "L PAD" (also known as a flag terminal) is one of the best connections ever designed. Ask your battery distributor to cast L pads for you (the mold is aluminum).

Then use 316 stainless (ONLY!) 5/16" X 1" bolts, nuts, flat and lockwashers. Immune to battery acid. 18-8 stainless is not acid proof. Nor 304. 316 Stainless or K-monel is acid proof. Won't even lose it's luster in 20 years soaking wet in acid.

Group 31 batteries for instance are 3/8" STUD batteries while group 29 and 30 batteries use lead posts. The stud is stainless and is not intended to pass any amperage whatsoever. Terminals are STACKED.

I would trade any "RV Terminal" type battery for a stud type battery in a heartbeat. Having so much overhanging lead post is not a smart design.
pianotuna
Nomad III
Dec 10, 2015
Most Stainless steel is not a good conductor. Use anti corrosion spray instead.
Dashonthedash
Explorer
Dec 09, 2015
The votes are in, I go for the high posts. That's what the distributor recommended as well. Thanks. By the way, my current batteries have a "dual" terminal consisting of both the stud and a separate SAE post. The new batteries don't come in that style.
BFL13
Explorer II
Dec 09, 2015
The higher lead post gives you a place to clamp on portable battery chargers, while the low lead post does not give you enough there to clamp onto.

Due to over-tightening the wing-nut (replaced with a regular nut so I can use a wrench) while also over-stacking ring terminals on the bolt, I managed to tighten the nut so much I pulled the bolt right out of the lead it is sunk into. It won't go back in no matter what you try.

I too ended up using adapters and had a lot of trouble getting them clamped to the low lead post part. Had to use the slightly higher bolt post part. So lesson is--go for the high lead post every time.
Matt_Colie
Explorer II
Dec 09, 2015
Do you want the take of a guy that used to get paid a lot of money to mess with these things before the depression shut us down??

I would (and have) gone with the UT post. And there are two reasons:
1 - It keeps the wing nut farther from the acid.
2 - It gives you a back up for when the stud snaps off. You can put a post adapter for wing nut on the SAE post that remains.

People around me often notice the things I do and remark that I am rather paranoid. My response has been the same for many years. "Yes, I am somewhat paranoid, but I am OLD and paranoid."
I am a waterman.

Matt
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Dec 09, 2015
What style do you have now?

Any issues with that style?

If you 'high profile' will you have adequate room to remove cables without making contact with anything?
enblethen
Nomad
Dec 09, 2015
Low posts will work OK. Make sure you get good quality, properly sized bolts and nuts. I would suggest stainless. Use electrical grease between the post and the connectors.