Question for "Blow Out the Water Line" gurus
I have always used the pink stuff, but am thinking of coming over to the dark side. (DW asks "why"?) My question: There is pex tubing from the water pump to the first junction going up to a faucet/...
Forum Discussion
dclark1946 wrote:dougrainer wrote:
Been blowing out lines for 36 years. Thousands of RV's motorhomes and Towables. We Warranty our work. NEVER had a customer come back with freeze damage. IF DONE CORRECTLY, Blowing out is the best way to go. That said, MOST Rv'ers will have NO clue how to do it correctly and MOST will not have a large capacity Air tank to keep up the required volume of air to do the job correctly. There are multiple items that MOST forget
1. Toilet valve
2. Black Flush Valve
3. Dishwasher valves and pump if equipped
4. Clothes washer solenoids AND drain pump if equipped
5. Icemaker and water thru the door if equipped
6. Following the Correct procedure for a Hydronic heating system, which cannot just be blown out. It must have antifreeze run thru it once blown out.
7 ALL P traps, even the one behind the Clothes washer if Antifreeze not pumped into and out of the washer.
8. The fresh water pump in line filter and running antifreeze thru it(water pump)1 cup is all it takes. Doug
What pressure do you use?
I have been blowing out our lines for 15 years with no freeze damage. Only use the pink stuff for the traps.
Dick
I have a special Air Hose pigtail with an adjustable regulator connected to a modified blow out plug. I set the air at 90 to 110. REMEMBER, as another posted, I ALWAYS have a faucet OPEN so the full pressure never is in the system. MOST RV Water systems will withstand up to 125 psi. I also have modified 120 volt pigtails to open various solenoids that require 120 to open(like icemaker water solenoids). I also forgot to mention----WATER FILTERS must be removed. Doug
