MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
I chose a 36-amp Megawatt, micrometer dial 10 turn pot for absorbsion voltage adjustment, 6 hour intermatic Spring wound timer and CheapoWatt 350 watt stacked on top of the Megawatt set to be a high amperage capable floater also adjustable with a micrometer dial 10 turn pot.
The Mega pushes 43 amps without breathing hard
When the timer runs down it leaves the Cheapo still running at float. The cheapo can handle a 28-amp hotel load without blinking at 13.5 or lower float voltages.
I realize a temp derate Lifeline Style would need to be SOFTWARE DRIVEN. It isn't going to happen.
Maybe with my free time I should construct a sign.
LIFELINE BATTERY USERS
PULL OVER IMMEDIATELY AND SHUT OFF THE IGNITION
YOU ARE KILLING YOUR BATTERY
Don't need a steenking fartcharger endlessly cycling the battery when a teensy float current capability is overwhelmed. Needless cycling is indeed a battery premature aging phenomenon.
When I open the front door and a blast furnace singes my nose hair or freezes my earlobes I know it's time to stop, right-face, and spend four seconds resetting the micrometer dials. A dual pole dual throw relay is used to manually over ride the 55 amp fartcharger which now is VERY seldom used. That whole-lotta float amperage keeps me in my Laz E Boy.
Bored people complain bitterly about occasional twisting of a dial because it screws up their free time working on PhD grade crossword puzzles.
A software EPROM driver would be best developed in India.
I have an ex much like the.Lifeline manual regarding social engagements, dress-codes, social etiquette and new furniture every week.
What do you currently set your MegaWatt at, voltage wise, for bulk charging, and what do you set your CheapoWatt at, Voltage wise, for float charging or taper charging? This would be for basic Trojan Deep Cycle GC-2s or T-1275s with 5% antimony plates.