Chris Bryant wrote:
Other than that- the revised wiring doesn't use the blue wire- it hooks the igniter module to the gas valve, so that it always has power if the gas valve is open. It also moves the grounds around. You can see the revised wiring at http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/R704B.pdf.
So you're saying that the revised wiring supplies power to the igniter continuously?
That's what this diagram you linked shows alright: http://screencast.com/t/pJepTtcwEK
Is the igniter module designed to work full-time (any time the gas solenoid is open)?
I read with the old wiring, the igniter is "locked out" if the thermocouple is showing voltage (flame is present), but starts producing sparks if the thermocouple indicates no flame?
I suspect the continuous sparking is probably better if running the fridge on gas while driving and the flame is likely to be blown out frequently?
Looking at this modification inset http://screencast.com/t/VSFqUgCTg it shows changing wires, and mine has the black and yellow wires as in the modification, so the igniter should indeed be active whenever the gas solenoid is activated.
Given that my solenoid was opening (allowing me to manually light the flame), I guess the connection to the igniter was faulty, since it worked after I removed and replaced the push-on spade terminals.
I don't HEAR it snapping when the flame is on, though. Perhaps I'll remove one of the wires to the solenoid (so I can listen for the sparking for the full 45 second period) just to make sure it's operational.
I wonder if my igniter is producing weak sparks-when I tested it, 3/16" spark was about all it would produce when hooked to a charged automobile battery. I wonder how big a spark it should be capable of?
Can you hear continuous sparking (in a very quiet environment) with your outside fridge cover off, the flame on, and your ear near the burner?
Thanks-
I guess the diagram I found was pre-modification.
Bob
