Air Conditioning Malfunction?

Excellent thread. Thanks for keeping us updated.

We have a problem with the sensor kicking the the second system, the front Heat pump system down or off first system is the rear unit. due to light 2 ft away and air trapped in that area. The system shares cooling and heating between the to units. We find that setting the front unit or 2 a couple degrees cooler than front.
You front unit 2 on ours, anyway, has kicked down to low on auto, it sounds like.
Try the unit on high and see i it doesn't freeze you out.
We are sitting her with our front unit making a fluttering noise and no heat of cool after a minute or two operation. The reversing valve, if that if what it is called is toast. Refrigerant is not going in either direction much.
You should be able to operate both units on 30 amp. Ours will shed load if too many amps or power is being consumed. But...not all units do that. I watch the load panel and when operating properly both 15,500 units draw 24 amps except when starting, or 12 amps each. Both units won't kick their compressors on at the same time,because it could/would cause problems but don't know about yours.
Try your heat pumps on the generator or 50 amps. On 30 amp turn off both units and start the front unit and see how it performs. Then kick on the rear unit and watch the amps.
You didn't mention noise so it does sound like the unit is operating on low setting, since it is putting out some cool air. Your sensor may be doing it or the thermostat and since I'm no ac expert call a mobile tech cheaper than a Dealer sometimes and ac work is one of their biggest demands.

Just a quick update for you... turns out both a/c units on top weren't working at full power... tech said they were operating at about half capacity, and thus, required replacement. Also turns out Dometic has a 2 year warranty on these, so their replacement was covered without cost to me.

Happy to note both units working chillingly! Heard compressor come on within a minute of turning on the a/c ("Cool" on the Dometic control panel), and shortly thereafter, it got really cold, really fast.

Of course, now that the season is cooling off, I have no need for the a/c until next summer, but it's no longer an issue. Thanks to everyone for your help, insight, and advice.

wa8yxm wrote:
Ah. the sweetest sound a Service consultant can make "Covered under Warranty"

Don't you just love it :)

You betcha, Bucko... they're in, soon to be installed, and all else looks good... batteries are fine... more relief... now... if I can just get the **** thing back while the weather's still cooperating!

Ah. the sweetest sound a Service consultant can make "Covered under Warranty"

Don't you just love it :)

Update:

Turns out, both a/c units are bad, and will be replaced under warranty (Dometic)... Took RV in for service issues, a/c among them, and tech noted my observations were correct, air flow wasn't cooling as it should, said something about power flow showed both were putting out only about half of what they should be. Since they are covered under warranty, he ordered two to install once received, and, presumably, this will solve the problem...

You definitely need new batteries, but the bigger question is what is the time frame to get the AC looked at under warranty? If you're getting close to the expiration I would take it in and worry about the other parts later. You can replace the batteries yourself beforehand, or have the dealership replace them for you.

12.6 is resting voltage full charge. The chassis batteries being 12.6 means you likely do NOT have a bi-directional isolator.. You need to confirm this with RV body builder and if you do not add a Tric-L-Start to keep them topped off.

13.2 is a bit low for float voltage on teh house batteries They may still be charging..

How much fluid did the batteries take (Do not answer that) were the plates seriously exposed? If only the top say quarter inch (or less) you may be OK but if you can't even even see the fluid level when you pop the cap as the other party said .. Replace 'em

now if they are six volt GC batteries (Looks like they are from the specs you gave) there are two pair. Each pair is wired like this

Frame---(=6v+)-----(-6v+)--- 12 volt to RV

Think of those (each pair) as thou it were a SINGLE 12 volt battery, because properly connected that is exactly what they are.

Since you have to be on 120VAC in order to run the A/C, then the condition of your batteries should be irrelevant; when plugged in (or on generator), your converter is providing the 12vdc that your A/C controls need, not the batteries, although I suppose that it is possible that a bad cell or battery could be drawing the voltage provided by your converter down so far as to cause problems. Disconnect the batteries entirely and try the A/C.

1. Your AC units will still operate down to about 11.4 volts. The Manufacturer rep was wrong
2. IF the battery plates were exposed at all, REPLACE all 4 batteries. You will never have piece of mind until you do. Doug