Recycled oil

Happy Jim wrote:
Only got couple of answers to the question the other 36 went off on a tangent. Thanks for all replies.

You'll get better answers if you post up on Bob IS The Oil Guy .

Only got couple of answers to the question the other 36 went off on a tangent. Thanks for all replies.

nevadanick wrote:
Who can provide proof of an oil related engine failure ? It simply isn't that big a deal nowadays what brand you run.

I am less concerned with a catastrophic engine failure than normal engine wear. All of our 4 vehicles have 135K+ miles on them. I have used synthetic (mostly Mobil 1)since the early 1980s. Studies show that there is less engine wear with synthetics, especially at cold startup (which accounts for the majority of engine wear.

If you intend to keep a car/truck for 100K miles or less, then any oil will be sufficient. Most of the advantages of synthetic show up after 100K miles as reduced engine wear, which puts off the point where you start burning oil due to piston ring wear, less slop in bearings, etc.

More and more manufacturers are specifying synthetic or synthetic blends for their vehicles because engines are built to far tighter tolerances than they used to be. Even a small amount of wear is significant and affects power, economy, and emissions.

Steve

Airstreamer67 wrote:

JaxDad wrote:

Airstreamer67 wrote:

JaxDad wrote:

Airstreamer67 wrote:
If I ever damage an engine or shorten its life due to dino oil, then I'll get synthetic. But since I started driving in 1958, I've never experienced that.

So, I save the difference and continue to use dino. But I'm always open for change when the time comes.

In 1958 most cars still had drum brakes in all 4 corners, had no ABS, rode on bias-ply tires, had headlights that you could easily outrun, and had no airbags.

But you survived anyways. I presume your current vehicle cost a lot more than what you drove in 1958 and has all of those modern improvements?

Why? What we drove before was just fine, it did the job.

BTW, they've long ago proven that synthetic is a better, CHEAPER, oil than conventional oil is.

As I said, I'll change to synthetics if and when the dino oils quit serving my engines until the day I pass them on to the next owner. Never have I had an engine fail or wear out due to using dino oil.

So, I don't know who "proved" "long ago" that synthetic is better and cheaper, but my experience proves to me that dino gives me all I can use, and then some. And the stores I shop at are cheating somebody, because all the synthetics aren't cheaper at all, au contraire, they are charging quite a bit of a synthetic premium. And if you say that synthetics allow longer oil change intervals, you should tell the car makers that.

I assume that dino oil has seen improvements since I first began driving back in the 50s. All I know is they continue to serve me quite well, and the vast majority of the public seems to agree with me.

The devil lives in the details.

I said "cheaper" not "costs less per quart".

With a 9,000 to 12,000 mile change interval instead of 3,000 miles if synthetic is only double the price per quart it's a bargain.

So out of curiosity, DOES your vehicle have 4 wheel disc brakes, ABS, seat belts and air bags?

How many manufacturers say that if synthetic oil is used, the owner can extend the oil change interval by a factor of three or four? I guess I missed that.

A couple little upstart companies. They probably don't know as much as the average Joe does.

GM, Mercedes, Lexus, Porsche, Infiniti, Audi, VW, Ford, Dodge / Chrysler..........

JaxDad wrote:

Airstreamer67 wrote:

JaxDad wrote:

Airstreamer67 wrote:
If I ever damage an engine or shorten its life due to dino oil, then I'll get synthetic. But since I started driving in 1958, I've never experienced that.

So, I save the difference and continue to use dino. But I'm always open for change when the time comes.

In 1958 most cars still had drum brakes in all 4 corners, had no ABS, rode on bias-ply tires, had headlights that you could easily outrun, and had no airbags.

But you survived anyways. I presume your current vehicle cost a lot more than what you drove in 1958 and has all of those modern improvements?

Why? What we drove before was just fine, it did the job.

BTW, they've long ago proven that synthetic is a better, CHEAPER, oil than conventional oil is.

As I said, I'll change to synthetics if and when the dino oils quit serving my engines until the day I pass them on to the next owner. Never have I had an engine fail or wear out due to using dino oil.

So, I don't know who "proved" "long ago" that synthetic is better and cheaper, but my experience proves to me that dino gives me all I can use, and then some. And the stores I shop at are cheating somebody, because all the synthetics aren't cheaper at all, au contraire, they are charging quite a bit of a synthetic premium. And if you say that synthetics allow longer oil change intervals, you should tell the car makers that.

I assume that dino oil has seen improvements since I first began driving back in the 50s. All I know is they continue to serve me quite well, and the vast majority of the public seems to agree with me.

The devil lives in the details.

I said "cheaper" not "costs less per quart".

With a 9,000 to 12,000 mile change interval instead of 3,000 miles if synthetic is only double the price per quart it's a bargain.

So out of curiosity, DOES your vehicle have 4 wheel disc brakes, ABS, seat belts and air bags?

How many manufacturers say that if synthetic oil is used, the owner can extend the oil change interval by a factor of three or four? I guess I missed that.

The 'German Castrol' 0w-30 certainly had a very loyal following, and it was green and made in Germany in the beginning. Now I believe it is no longer green, and made in Belgium, but that might be the newer Castrol 0w-40, but perhaps both.

I'm using M1 0w-30 AFE in my LA318. The 0w-40 was a bit quieter for the first half of the oil change. Both are quieter than the 10w-40HM and the M1 5w-40 TDT I was using before, especially at start up.

nevadanick wrote:
Who can provide proof of an oil related engine failure ? It simply isn't that big a deal nowadays what brand you run.

You've never lost a turbocharger that coked up in the bearing area, grenaded, and takes the whole diesel motor out as collateral damage in the process. Think oil leak, zero clearance head on a TDI, and oil causes at first a runaway motor, until so much oil gets in you get hydraulic lock and you crack the piston or bend the connecting rod, or jam it into the bore of the block and out the side.

Petroleum based oil has done that to plenty of turbo's and motors. Synthetic and coked bearings on turbos are quite a bit less infrequent. One needs to understand that Mobil 1 synthetic was originally designed to handle the heat in turbine and jet engines, where the bearing operating temperatures are much, much higher. Turbo bearings, when non water cooled as in most turbo diesels, are in that heat range too, from the heat passed from the impeller on the exhaust side going through the shaft of the cartridge bearing, where the oil floated bearing is located. Oil in that region carries the heat away from the shaft. Synthetic does it better.

I let the manufacturers of motors make the oil recommendations.
When you are making a lot of HP or a lot of torque out of a smaller engine block, heat on oil and stress levels on oil is high. I want the biggest saftey margin I can get. The RAM ECO Diesel PU is in that class, as a small travel trailer TV. 3 liters pulling 8000 lbs of trailer max, is high stress.

LY318... One motor oil that many have commented as quieting lifters and quieting motors in general, is German Castrol 0w-30 or Green Castrol 0w-30. It might be a version of Castrol Edge nowadays. You have to read the fine print, it's usually labels Euro formula, and it is always Made in Germany. It is still PAO based, pretty much a must for any 0 weight oil to be loaded with synthetic base to get the viscosity that low. Available at AutoZone, find it when it goes on sale.

Synthetic oil stopped my lifters from rattling on startup. Same filter, so not an ADBV issue.

The rest is just some warm and fuzzies. Knowing in a worst case situation, like overheating I have a little bit longer before spinning a bearing. More resistance to sludging.

A 5 quart jug of M1 cost me 25$ or under, 5 quarts conventional, 12 to 15$.
yearly oil changes, I can afford some warm and fuzzies for 10$ extra per year.

No lifter clatter to me, is priceless.

Somebody call the cops, i'm running 0w-30 in an engine that when made, 0w-30 was not even available!!! 'm not even in a cold climate where i could even benefit from a 0w oil. I should go back in time and find a SJ rated motor oil in the 10w-30 flavor, because thats what my owners manual recommends!!

Motor oil has so many popular myths surrounding it, I pretty much tune out all internet recommended wisdom, especially from the older crowd who have years and years of Pennzoil/quaker state wax sludge myths to perpertrate, as if it was still 1983.

Conventional oils have really closed the gap with synthetics.

Who can provide proof of an oil related engine failure ? It simply isn't that big a deal nowadays what brand you run.

VW 507.00 motor oil in 5w-30 is a specification for VW, Audi and Porsche (C-30) that is a full synthetic, made in Germany, PAO and Ester based (group 4 and 5) synthetic oil. It was designed and engineered for extended oil changes, to be at least 30,000 KM rated motor oil.

Germany has the completely original different specification for the term "synthetic" motor oil... you can learn more about it if you look at the Castrol vs Mobil 1 lawsuit. Castrol synthesized petroleum based base stock and called it "Synthetic" motor oil, against the prevailing description of synthetic oil as originally created, designed and manufactured by Mobil chemical engineers.

Germany does not allow Group III motor oils, like Castrol and Shell Rotella, to be classified as or marketed as synthetic motor oils, unlike other European nations.

That German car companies still specify German made and produced oils for their cars makes one wonder...

What I do know is that I change my oil every 10k miles, and at $9 a liter, and 8 liters required, it's a bite out of the wallet when it needs doing. Always ends up German made oil, just the way it is.

I've sent a few samples of Mobil 1 Delvac 1 5w-40 diesel motor oil off for testing, with 15,000 miles on it, 3 or 4 times, and every time, when run in my 2002 VW Jetta TDI diesel, I was advised the oil truly looked fine, and that another 5 to 10,000 miles was still in the motor oil, based on metal and traace element levels. For reasons unknown, my motor always exhibited low soot, plenty of base additive left and 50 ppm levels of iron on 15k mile oil and filter change intervals... 80% of my mileage being freeway or highway cruising, easy on motor.