Redarc DC-DC Battery Charger
I’m in the process of installing a Redarc BCDC1225D battery charger in my truck camper. I got it installed enough yesterday to give it an initial test, and was pleased to see that with the truck idlin...
Forum Discussion
Stacey, stacking the Redarc chargers for increased charging capacity is something I hadn’t even considered when I bought the first one. That’s an interesting option, and I’d like to see that just from a curiosity standpoint. My physical space limitations would make that a bit challenging, but not impossible. Not just for the charger itself, but for the added batteries that would be driving that need. I’ve given it considerable thought for sure! The usefulness of the Redarc has actually exceeded my expectations, which is why I didn’t hesitate upgrading to the 40 amp model. After selling the 25 amp unit, there was very little out of pocket expense.
Charles, I gave some thought to doing exactly what you suggested and remote mounting the fuse for the DC element, but decided there were a couple other reasons why I preferred running the fridge in AC mode vs DC. One big reason is that I had installed a remote switch for the inverter on the front of the camper so I could turn it on and off without having to go inside. It’s good for when we make a stop just for shopping or sightseeing, and want the fridge to run on LP for a while. The fridge also won’t auto switch from DC to AC mode, so you have to remember to do that manually when you plug in to shore power.
That remote switch came in handy on our last trip after making a stop at an antique store. We got back on the road and I remembered that I hadn’t turned the inverter back on, so I asked one of the five girls that was traveling with me (different story) to open her window and flip that remote switch for me. Take your hat and glasses off first, though! :B
For reasons I could never determine, the fridge in this camper has never been able to run reliably on LP while driving at hiway speeds. I tried every suggestion for fixing it, and was only able to improve it slightly. I finally gave up beating my head against that wall.
As for the DC mode, the heating element is still there and I wouldn’t hesitate to use it in a pinch, but I’m not going to rely on it for continuous use any longer. This was actually the second time the DC element had done that. The first time was when I thought maybe the reason the fridge performed so poorly in DC mode was due to a defective heating element. When I tried to find a new 215 watt element, I found they were out of production. A parts dealer claimed to have a substitute, but it was about 20-25 watts hotter. I bought it, and while testing it overnight it burnt the Dinosaur control board bad enough (again, without blowing the fuse!) that the DC mode would never work again. I had to replace the control board as well as return the heating element.
I like the physical packaging of the Redarc unit myself. Even though mine is installed inside the camper out of the weather, there’s still the possibility of it getting wet due to all the plumbing that’s around it. It wouldn’t be the first time I’ve had a water leak there! :W
:):)
Charles, I gave some thought to doing exactly what you suggested and remote mounting the fuse for the DC element, but decided there were a couple other reasons why I preferred running the fridge in AC mode vs DC. One big reason is that I had installed a remote switch for the inverter on the front of the camper so I could turn it on and off without having to go inside. It’s good for when we make a stop just for shopping or sightseeing, and want the fridge to run on LP for a while. The fridge also won’t auto switch from DC to AC mode, so you have to remember to do that manually when you plug in to shore power.
That remote switch came in handy on our last trip after making a stop at an antique store. We got back on the road and I remembered that I hadn’t turned the inverter back on, so I asked one of the five girls that was traveling with me (different story) to open her window and flip that remote switch for me. Take your hat and glasses off first, though! :B
For reasons I could never determine, the fridge in this camper has never been able to run reliably on LP while driving at hiway speeds. I tried every suggestion for fixing it, and was only able to improve it slightly. I finally gave up beating my head against that wall.
As for the DC mode, the heating element is still there and I wouldn’t hesitate to use it in a pinch, but I’m not going to rely on it for continuous use any longer. This was actually the second time the DC element had done that. The first time was when I thought maybe the reason the fridge performed so poorly in DC mode was due to a defective heating element. When I tried to find a new 215 watt element, I found they were out of production. A parts dealer claimed to have a substitute, but it was about 20-25 watts hotter. I bought it, and while testing it overnight it burnt the Dinosaur control board bad enough (again, without blowing the fuse!) that the DC mode would never work again. I had to replace the control board as well as return the heating element.
I like the physical packaging of the Redarc unit myself. Even though mine is installed inside the camper out of the weather, there’s still the possibility of it getting wet due to all the plumbing that’s around it. It wouldn’t be the first time I’ve had a water leak there! :W
:):)
