Refrigerator ran off level

dougrainer wrote:

They will NOT do better on LP.

Well it seems that at least a half dozen of us are afflicted by the same delusion Doug.

Give it a rest please.

Sam Spade wrote:

Rmack1 wrote:
I turn it off to use the microwave, because that trips breakers in my friends system otherwise.

Wait.....what ?? When did this friend come into the picture ?

As several have mentioned, mine does MUCH better on propane.

Also the "hot dog" test depends on what else was in there with them and where they were located within the box.

At this point, I suggest that you test it on propane.
I don't trust mine on 110 until it has been on for maybe 24 hours and completely cooled down.

They will NOT do better on LP. LP and 120 are the almost exact same BTU heating. BUT, IF your 120 supply voltage is LOW(below 115 volts) then your refer will operate better on LP. The refer cannot control the input line voltage. YOU CAN. That is why a voltmeter is a GOOD tool to have. ALWAYS check your 120 volt in your RV. IF the Line voltage is below 115, then operate your refer on LP. If above, then the 120 and LP will cool the same. IF below 115 and you have NOT started your roof AC yet, odds are the line voltage will drop another 2 to 5 volts depending on the CG supply system. Doug

Rmack1 wrote:
I just freaked when I saw that the bubble was just outside the lines on my level, and the previously frozen sausages were soft.

Putting them in the door is exactly the wrong thing to do, as the door usually is a few degrees warmer than the inside. Things will freeze and stay frozen best when in direct contact with the inside cabinet near the back.....usually.

One can get a lot of good information on here but if you tend to be at all OCD or paranoid it can be too much information.

I've had my 8 year old, 45K miles C now for two years.
I've had a lot of annoying little problems with it but except for the tires I have had trouble with NONE of the items which get the most attention on here.

dougrainer wrote:
Check your thermometer. Even a Residential freezer will NOT get 15 to 20 degrees BELOW 0(zero). Maybe you mean below freezing? (32 degrees). Doug

Perhaps he's measuring in degrees Celcius.

Sam Spade wrote:

Rmack1 wrote:
I turn it off to use the microwave, because that trips breakers in my friends system otherwise.

Wait.....what ?? When did this friend come into the picture ?

As several have mentioned, mine does MUCH better on propane.

Also the "hot dog" test depends on what else was in there with them and where they were located within the box.

At this point, I suggest that you test it on propane.
I don't trust mine on 110 until it has been on for maybe 24 hours and completely cooled down.

I'm staying at a friends place in Oregon and he's providing the power. Didn't think that was relevant.

OK, maybe the location in the 'fridge is a factor. I moved them from inside to the door.

I kept it off for 24 hours, and turned it back on. Everything seems OK. Everything else is nice and frozen, and the lower part seems to be cold. I just freaked when I saw that the bubble was just outside the lines on my level, and the previously frozen sausages were soft.

Thanks for the info, everyone.

turbojimmy wrote:

Dave H M wrote:
:h I usually use a thermometer instead of a hot dog.

I was thinking that, too. I thought maybe I had been overlooking the lowly hot dog as a good indicator of a functioning freezer.

I put a new cooling unit in my '84 Norcold. I forget the brand but it was inexpensive - I found it on eBay. The freezer gets to 15-20 below 0 and the fridge hangs out just above freezing. It's not an easy job by any stretch of the imagination, but my old Allegro wasn't worth the investment in a new fridge.

With regard to propane vs. electric, I always had the impression that the propane made it cooler but I hadn't done any scientific comparisons. I had observed that it cooled down quicker with propane but I guess it levels off around the same temps as with electric.

Check your thermometer. Even a Residential freezer will NOT get 15 to 20 degrees BELOW 0(zero). Maybe you mean below freezing? (32 degrees). Doug

mike-s wrote:
Yep. According to the Dometic manuals, the RM2663 has a 215 W 12 V heater, a 325 W 120 VAC heater, and a 1500 BTU/hr (440 W) propane burner. Others are similar, but that one has all three heat sources.

Propane flame is roughly 350*F
Electric heat is roughly 332*F

Electric heat is in direct contact with perk tube
Propane heat is disbursed via a flue baffle

Propane /electric virtually the same ------propane will start heating of ammonia slightly sooner than electric due to heat going up flue but once ammonia begins moving up perk tube and flashing into vapor propane/electric work the same

Thermostat controls cooling cycle regardless of which heat source unless you have an old cabinet model)

Yep. According to the Dometic manuals, the RM2663 has a 215 W 12 V heater, a 325 W 120 VAC heater, and a 1500 BTU/hr (440 W) propane burner. Others are similar, but that one has all three heat sources.

Rmack1 wrote:
I turn it off to use the microwave, because that trips breakers in my friends system otherwise.

Wait.....what ?? When did this friend come into the picture ?

As several have mentioned, mine does MUCH better on propane.

Also the "hot dog" test depends on what else was in there with them and where they were located within the box.

At this point, I suggest that you test it on propane.
I don't trust mine on 110 until it has been on for maybe 24 hours and completely cooled down.

Why can a park model cabin have a factory installed propane stove with a DSI oven and a TT, FW, or MH can't? My guess is the NHTSA (and related agencies) has decided that park model cabins aren't over-the-road vehicles and don't have the same compliance requirements as TTs, FWs, and MHs.

The RV industry could use a different fridge design tomorrow, but won't because it doesn't believe the ROI is there for cost of the certification of a new design of an appliance for such a small consumer market.