Leveling

The manual is very clear about not letting wheels leave the ground while leveling for a stay. In fact is says it so many times that the first thing I put in our storage box was 2x10s to support the tires if they did. I believe the manual.

My problem was that PT 2x10s didn't last 4 trips.

I looked at everything I could find on blocking and convinced myself that plastic blocks would fare no better.

I read on another RV sight about the horse stall liners made from recycled tires. I found and bought a 4'x6' pad at tractor supply and plotted out the best way to cut it up for use as tire blocks. They are 3/4 inch thick and will never wear out. I wore out 4 jigsaw blades cutting them to size. I can raise any two wheels on the MH 3 3/4 inches if I ever need to.

My driveway is 3 inches lower where the front wheels sit than the rear wheels. I cut the pads to fit the dual rear wheels and narrower ones for the front. The pieces vary in width by 2 inches so I can stack them and the wheels only have to step up 3/4 inches from one pad to the next.

The MH is sitting on them now and I'm out $39 for a fix that should last a very long time. The sheet was very heavy. The wide and narrow strips fit easily in the smallest storage compartment. I like doing things like this once.

My 2x10s are near the trash burn pile now because they are each in 2 pieces. I plan to raise the MH as minimally as possible because tech support at Winnie and every manual I read says to do so.

wbwood wrote:
I have a motorhome without leveling jacks and never have had them. But it kind of confuses me as to why not use them to raise a wheel or wheels off the ground. If you use them and then out something under the wheels, then why use them besides stabilization? Sounds like a big expense (something else to break) and not any better if you are having to put things under tires after leveling your motorhome with them.

The biggest risk is bending a jack ram. The rest of the stuff about rolling away or whatever I think is pretty unlikely as the same weight and contact patch still exists via the jack pad regardless if the wheel is down or not. Personally I have no issue getting the wheels off the ground to level and have done so many times without incident.

I have a motorhome without leveling jacks and never have had them. But it kind of confuses me as to why not use them to raise a wheel or wheels off the ground. If you use them and then out something under the wheels, then why use them besides stabilization? Sounds like a big expense (something else to break) and not any better if you are having to put things under tires after leveling your motorhome with them.

Effy wrote:

jerseyjim wrote:
Right: do not raise the wheels off the ground. Puts unneeded stress on the chassis.

Stress on the chassis? I haven't heard of a single case ever where the chassis was damaged by the jacks. And if there were, there are other factors in play.

I have leveled mine with wheels off the ground several times and never experienced any of the doom and gloom that is supposed to happen. I am careful not to let the rear wheels off as on a gasser that's what keeps it from rolling. Although I am not sure how it could roll, the contact patch of a jack foot is about the same as a tire so I really don't see it skiing down a hill. The only thing I can see happening would be to the jack leg itself if it was to bend under lateral stress. But I really don't think getting a front wheel off the ground an inch is going to destroy your MH.

Ive had my fronts off the ground a few times, although I try not to. But the best source of how it should be done in your coach is your coach's manual. There are differences. For example in my Monaco, you deploy the slides before leveling. Other motorhomes call for the reverse.

Veebyes wrote:
Wood is cheap, has many uses & when it reaches the end of its useful life you can burn it. Can't do that with the expensive plastic blocks.

Unless it's pressure treated, which is the only thing I would use in this instance. Can't burn PT wood. It off gasses harmful chemicals.

Wood is cheap, has many uses & when it reaches the end of its useful life you can burn it. Can't do that with the expensive plastic blocks.

jerseyjim wrote:
Right: do not raise the wheels off the ground. Puts unneeded stress on the chassis.

Stress on the chassis? I haven't heard of a single case ever where the chassis was damaged by the jacks. And if there were, there are other factors in play.

I have leveled mine with wheels off the ground several times and never experienced any of the doom and gloom that is supposed to happen. I am careful not to let the rear wheels off as on a gasser that's what keeps it from rolling. Although I am not sure how it could roll, the contact patch of a jack foot is about the same as a tire so I really don't see it skiing down a hill. The only thing I can see happening would be to the jack leg itself if it was to bend under lateral stress. But I really don't think getting a front wheel off the ground an inch is going to destroy your MH.

Plywood will last longer

I like this method.

Use your auto-level feature. If the wheels are off the ground on one side, figure out how much lumber (or plastic, or whatever you use) you need to provide a solid footing. Then manually raise that side enough to slide the lumber under the wheels. Manually lower that side, then rerun the auto-level.

I would think it would be more solid on the jacks instead of on the tires/springs.
bumpy