Relay? Really!

SUCCESS IN MARRIAGE IS...

Waking up in the morning and saying to the DW

"Look honey, I don't know what I did wrong but I sure apologize for it"

Maybe I am fortunate to retain high levels of enthusiasm at age 70

Was the antelope doing 40mph, or the van?

I admire a man who apologises readily when he decides he is in the wrong. As Mex says, too many boneheads don't.

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
You are absolutely entitled to growl and snap....

No need for growling... I just ordered 2 of them and will put 'em to the test to see how they perform.
I have plenty of good uses for high current relays :)
-Mark

You are absolutely entitled to growl and snap. None of us I think can avoid getting grouchy. Too much physical pain and jabs to the frustration bin dealing with other more important issues that leave us ummmsome-thing-or-other "offed" and at my age chips are easily carried on the shoulder for too long afterwards. I took no offense but I will truly accept an apology because you felt one was warranted. There are some knotheads on the face of the earth who would not surrender an apology even if they later realized they were wrong and lay on their deathbed. Woe to them via my sarcasm. They made the top floorof the retinue for my speed-bag grade sarcasm. You of course are just the opposite - a gentleman.

Some of us do our own work and a heavy duty relay for that price I felt should be shared with everyone.

MexicoWanderer, I indulged in a bit of unwarranted sniping early on in this thread for which I wish to apologize. It was unnecessary and totally without worth. I guess I just was being an old curmudgeon. I also apologized on the other thread. Sorry.

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
12 volts son, 12 volts meaning direct current. The light bars have built in regulation. 12 24 volt, no switches, connect it and it works. No dimmers no PWM

But just TRY and find a 65-amp T-rated switch. For ergonomics as well as capacity. When switching the light on and off, the throwing of a contact bar on the dash is a bit tough to conceive of.

Control will occur with the switching of high beams. Easy to facilitate. But a relay like this one fills the bill.

Van got whacked by an antelope last week. They cross the highway at night doing forty. Van is totaled, occupants went to the hospital.

Have 1 buss bar on the back, on the switched side, and split the 60 amps on the 2 pole.... 30 amps each.

breaker as a switch.

uh, I think all diodes are DC, once you are done with them, just like rectifiers?

12 volts son, 12 volts meaning direct current. The light bars have built in regulation. 12 24 volt, no switches, connect it and it works. No dimmers no PWM

But just TRY and find a 65-amp T-rated switch. For ergonomics as well as capacity. When switching the light on and off, the throwing of a contact bar on the dash is a bit tough to conceive of.

Control will occur with the switching of high beams. Easy to facilitate. But a relay like this one fills the bill.

Van got whacked by an antelope last week. They cross the highway at night doing forty. Van is totaled, occupants went to the hospital.

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
How does one "control" an 800-watt LED light bar?

Some sort of PWM device for a dimmer, would be my guess. What the specs would be are for the EE's to determine, not me, outta my league when running 3.7V LED's, with no way of knowing the wiring for voltage, parallel or in series.

A switch and/or a dimmer. That's an awful lot of light.

How does one "control" an 800-watt LED light bar?