Relocating the battery charger help
Last summer I replaced my WFCO charger for a Powermax Boondocker PM4B-75 MBA. At the same time, I replaced the single group 24 battery with (2) 6v gf (from Batteries plus) so I have 230AH which I can...
Forum Discussion
I see you're muddled about the path of the 12V power to the coach/12 V distribution panel.
First, isn't that Boondocker a converter/charger, not an inverter/charger? Terminology is imporatnt, here.
There exists a common circuit between your batteries, the converter, and the batteries. Anytime 120V is supplied to the converter, it outputs DC voltage to both the batteries and the distribution panel. Remove your batteries and you will still have 12 V power to the cabin. Remove (or unpower 120v) to the converter and you will still have 12 V power to the cabin. This common circuit is why Soundguy and others can add in a charger and use existing terminal connections.
If you don't have a hand held meter, buy one and learn it's functions. A meter can be anything from free at Harbor Freight (occasionally, $4 elsewise) to a clamp meter that has higher DC amperage function (around $60).
With a meter, you can measure voltage drop and learn how wire size effects charging and 12V functions.
If you have OEM small charge wires, replace them with larger wire. There will be suggestions on this but 4AWG is a fairly good choice (welding cable is cheap and supple). If you are using 6V GC2 batteries, they love a charge voltage of 14.8V or higher. Lesser voltages will eventually result in a loss of capacity. Equalization is also a good thing to put into a battery maintenance schedule. I use a shop charger for that purpose but one of the Megawatt power supplies will do it too. This is a manual process but you can drink a beer or do another task while it's underway.
Good luck with your battery charging!
First, isn't that Boondocker a converter/charger, not an inverter/charger? Terminology is imporatnt, here.
There exists a common circuit between your batteries, the converter, and the batteries. Anytime 120V is supplied to the converter, it outputs DC voltage to both the batteries and the distribution panel. Remove your batteries and you will still have 12 V power to the cabin. Remove (or unpower 120v) to the converter and you will still have 12 V power to the cabin. This common circuit is why Soundguy and others can add in a charger and use existing terminal connections.
If you don't have a hand held meter, buy one and learn it's functions. A meter can be anything from free at Harbor Freight (occasionally, $4 elsewise) to a clamp meter that has higher DC amperage function (around $60).
With a meter, you can measure voltage drop and learn how wire size effects charging and 12V functions.
If you have OEM small charge wires, replace them with larger wire. There will be suggestions on this but 4AWG is a fairly good choice (welding cable is cheap and supple). If you are using 6V GC2 batteries, they love a charge voltage of 14.8V or higher. Lesser voltages will eventually result in a loss of capacity. Equalization is also a good thing to put into a battery maintenance schedule. I use a shop charger for that purpose but one of the Megawatt power supplies will do it too. This is a manual process but you can drink a beer or do another task while it's underway.
Good luck with your battery charging!
