Forum Discussion

johnm1's avatar
johnm1
Explorer
Mar 24, 2017

Relocating the battery charger help

Last summer I replaced my WFCO charger for a Powermax Boondocker PM4B-75 MBA. At the same time, I replaced the single group 24 battery with (2) 6v gf (from Batteries plus) so I have 230AH which I can use 50% of that (~115AH).

However, as others on the forum have noted, I don't get as much of a "recharge" from the generator(s) as I expected (or wanted). I have 2 Champion 2000W (1600w continuous load) inverter generators with parallel kit if needed. I don't mind throwing more money at the RV and replace the charger (whether it be smart or not) IF I knew which one to get. If it's not a "smart" charger, I would need some schooling on how to operate it.

Based upon the pages and pages of reading that I've done on this forum, one of the 1st things for me to do is to move the "new" Boondocker as close to the batteries as reasonably possible.


My current setup:
- (2) 6v gf batteries on the tongue. I have room for 2 more if needed (or required) to make the Boondocker work better.
- Converter/charging is roughly 17+/- feet away from the batteries with a **** load of connections along the way.
- The battery cables that are in use are what the factory installed. I don't know wire sizing so I don't know what mine is though I gather it's way undersized.


I can:
- move the charger closer to the batteries but they'll still be 4-6 feet apart. This is because the wires need to go down through the floor and then back up to the batteries.
- Use the largest wire that will fit the Boondocker (I believe that's 2 gauge).


This is where I get lost ...
- To power the charger, can I make a 120VAC run from the original chargers location (kind of like and extension cord) so it's on the same circuit breaker in the distribution box?
- Do I add a fuse between the charger and batteries on the new 2 gauge wire? If yes, what kind/size/etc?
- I assume I need to get 12VDC power back to the distribution box. How do I do this? Can I use the existing undersized factory battery cables that are already there or do I need to go much bigger?

I really can't get the charger any closer, without putting it in a waterproof box outside. Should I see a big improvement doing this?

Thanks for any help,

33 Replies

  • I thought the charger/inverter "kicked in" to help run things (when on shore/generator power) if I started to draw more than the battery could put out. Hence the reason to run cables from the charger to the inverter. Or do I have this completely messed up in my head?

    Also - I didn't even think about from the batteries to the DC power distribution box. The factory battery cables will be ok for that? Would it be worth the extra $ to swap out with something "bigger"? If yes, what size?
  • I have the same but different scenario :W ... WFCO 8955 located "miles" from the trailer tongue where the batteries are located. :M Last fall I turned the WFCO off and started using a CTEK portable charger that does a true 14.4 volt bulk charge but since it was near the end of the season I just parked it on the tongue and connected it directly to the battery. Just yesterday I brought our trailer home from winter storage and one thing I have to do to get ready for spring is to mount the CTEK in the front pass through cargo compartment where my 1000 watt PSW inverter is mounted. Since I already have 4 gauge cables each 6' long running from the battery to the inverter's input terminals I've wired the CTEK's output cables to these termination points as there's no advantage in duplicating the run. For 120 vac power to feed the CTEK last fall I tapped off one of the duplex receptacles by the bed since we rarely use that circuit for much anyway and ran 14/2 Romex over to where I'm about to now mount the CTEK. I could have wired this hot since the CTEK has it's own power switch but it was just as easy to install a receptacle with it's own paddle switch I can use to disconnect power to the CTEK anytime I want. In your case the converter / charger may be different but the solution to wiring it up could be the same. :)

    EDIT:

    What the heck, weather is good so I went ahead and mounted my CTEK as described above ... one step closer to our first trip of the season! :B

  • the boondocker is fused on the DC connections

    you can add equal fusing at the battery connection if you wish
    BUT its Not a necessity

    the new 2ga will handle the charging
    leave the old wire in place from the batteries to DC power panel in place, it only needs to carry the power used by the lights and DC loads, WP, heater, fridge control

About Technical Issues

Having RV issues? Connect with others who have been in your shoes.24,288 PostsLatest Activity: Jan 09, 2022