Removing 50 Amp RV Surge Protector

It appears One needs to spend about $60.00-$75.00 to make 50 surge unit removable

Using standard RV plugs would allow the unit to be plugged directly into a pedestal for testing for a friend. For a remote type unit remove the remote and use a spare data cable. Generally the hard wired units are not intended to be outside so this would be just for testing. At that point he should be ordering his own unit. :B

SoundGuy wrote:
BTW, speaking of "failure" - you might want to downsize that pic you've posted so it meets forum requirements and doesn't cause text to scroll way off the screen. :R

X2

tmartin000 Please edit your post, redo the picture link and add a width of 600.

CA Traveler wrote:
1. My unit has a bypass switch.

SoundGuy wrote:
Which does NOT truly bypass the unit, only physically removing it from the system does ... time to read your owner's manual. ;)

tmartin000 wrote:
Holy shizzle. You are 100% correct. I try **** hard to keep things looking factory and not have those. A metal box and that's it. I guess there may be exceptions, but there are a ton of addition resistance at each of those connection points. This is what excessive heat will do.

Operate any circuit beyond it's rated limits for any length of time and it's not surprising at all that components will fail as you've illustrated ... but operate within the rated limits and there's no reason to expect failure at all. According to your argument, Progressive Industries, TRC, and anyone else that manufacturers portable surge protection / EMS devices had better remove them immediately from the market 'cause they too connect into the system using the exact same connectors I'm using. ;)

BTW, speaking of "failure" - you might want to downsize that pic you've posted so it meets forum requirements and doesn't cause text to scroll way off the screen. :R

SoundGuy wrote:

CA Traveler wrote:
1. My unit has a bypass switch.

Which does NOT truly bypass the unit, only physically removing it from the system does ... time to read your owner's manual. ;)

Holy shizzle. You are 100% correct. I try **** hard to keep things looking factory and not have those. A metal box and that's it. I guess there may be exceptions, but there are a ton of addition resistance at each of those connection points.

SoundGuy,

Understood but I'm willing to spend 10 minutes to bypass the unit when required. Or just push the gen button and fix the problem later. :)

CA Traveler wrote:
1. My unit has a bypass switch.

SoundGuy wrote:
Which does NOT truly bypass the unit, only physically removing it from the system does ... time to read your owner's manual. ;)

CA Traveler wrote:
Correct and I'm fully aware of how bypass works. Good point as a device failure may not allow the bypass to work. But then I can easily physically remove the device and I realize that not everyone can or will want to remove the device.

Ergo the reason many of us with hard wire EMS units prefer to install them using connectors - instant removal. As far as the bypass failing, not so much ... it's the fact that when in bypass the surge protection part of the EMS is still active, yet that's the most likely circuit to fail simply because it's main component is the MOV (Metal Oxide Varistor) which by the nature of it's design gradually degrades every time it takes a hit until it eventually fails completely. Should that happen with mine I'll be able to remove it completely from the system in seconds simply by pulling the connectors apart, removing the EMS entirely, and butting the two remaining cable ends back together again so I can remain up and running until such time as I can repair any damage the EMS may have sustained.

SoundGuy wrote:

CA Traveler wrote:
1. My unit has a bypass switch.

Which does NOT truly bypass the unit, only physically removing it from the system does ... time to read your owner's manual. ;)

Correct and I'm fully aware of how bypass works. Good point as a device failure may not allow the bypass to work. But then I can easily physically remove the device and I realize that not everyone can or will want to remove the device.

CA Traveler wrote:
1. My unit has a bypass switch.

Which does NOT truly bypass the unit, only physically removing it from the system does ... time to read your owner's manual. ;)

just my 2 cents, but adding connections just adds resistance points and points to have issues with.