Removing 50 Amp RV Surge Protector

3oaks wrote:
I think SoundGuy and Bobbo have the best way to go. That is how I plan on connecting my 30 amp PI EMS when my new TT arrives.

Not often, but I have read of a PI EMS malfunction. Now if that were to happen or just for trouble shooting purposes, all a person would have to do is unplug the EMS and plug the pig tail and shore power cord together without the EMS. Can be done in a minute or two with no tools necessary.

True but not a big advantage for my HW50C.
1. My unit has a bypass switch.
2. It's mounted adjacent to the ATS and did not involve any wire cutting so changing the wire to bypass the HW50C would not take long.
3. In 10 years mine has not failed.

Also not much fuss involved in removing the unit as it's rather quick. The "fuss" as such is involved in installation and the biggest fuss for the me is routing the data cable for the remote and this applies to any new rig. Or hold up the CC and no fuss at all.

I think SoundGuy and Bobbo have the best way to go. That is how I plan on connecting my 30 amp PI EMS when my new TT arrives.

Not often, but I have read of a PI EMS malfunction. Now if that were to happen or just for trouble shooting purposes, all a person would have to do is unplug the EMS and plug the pig tail and shore power cord together without the EMS. Can be done in a minute or two with no tools necessary.

SoundGuy wrote:

myredracer wrote:
Can't see any reason why you'd need a twistlock connector/plug and straight blade will be fine.

No one is saying you'd "need" to use twist lock connectors but rather that they're just another option, readily available at places like Home Depot, Lowes, etc.

True. And just one more insurance against the plug vibrating out of the socket. I am the guy who has the twist lock plugs. I am a belt and suspenders kind of guy. FWIW, I also have a zip tie holding them together. Again, necessary? No, but I sleep better.

myredracer wrote:
Can't see any reason why you'd need a twistlock connector/plug and straight blade will be fine.

No one is saying you'd "need" to use twist lock connectors but rather that they're just another option, readily available at places like Home Depot, Lowes, etc. When I bought a portable TRC Surge Guard a couple of years ago it was wired with 30 amp male & female RV pigtail connectors since it was designed to hang off a campsite power post. However, I wanted to install mine inside the trailer so I cut the main service cable where it entered the trailer and wired on a matching set of male & female Arcon 30 amp Connectors so I could then remove the Surge Guard anytime I wanted, for whatever reason.



Recently I sold that TRC Surge Guard to a friend and replaced it with a Progressive EMS-HW30C and because I already had standard 30 amp RV connectors installed in the main service cable I wired male & female Arcon 30 amp Pigtails into the EMS so I could then insert or remove it too from the incoming main service cable anytime I wanted, for any reason.



For a fresh installation twist lock connectors would serve the purpose also but since I had started with standard 30 amp RV connectors in order to match the TRC it just made sense to continue using them when I installed the Progressive EMS. Six of one, half dozen of the other - either connector will work just fine. :)

Lantley wrote:
Is it really worth all the fuss vs. Buying a new unit when/if you get a new RV.
I tend to keep my stuff a while so I can't imagine going through all the uninstalling and reinstalling in order to install a 10 year old EMS into a new RV.
I have no future plans to buy an RV now, however when the time comes I will want the latest technology EMS available vs. my old one.
I understand the old one will be free (paid For) but it will still be too old to install into my new RV!

ATABOY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Old tech in new rig???????????????????

Bobbo wrote:

djousma wrote:

Bobbo wrote:
I used twist lock plug/sockets. Mine is 30 amp, but the principle is the same.

Bobbo, That doesnt look like heavy enough wire for 30amp? Looks from the photo like standard Romex wiring for 15amp circuit.

It is 10/2 w/g.

ON EDIT: I just went outside and photographed the cable sheathing. Here is the picture. It is hard to read, but says "AWG 10 CU 2 CDR WITH AWG 10 GROUND TYPE NM-B 600 VOLTS"

Looks like the same type of wringing my entire camper is wired with.

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60 ampere EUROTERMINALS

Designed to accept up to 6 AWG conductor

djousma wrote:

Bobbo wrote:
I used twist lock plug/sockets. Mine is 30 amp, but the principle is the same.

Bobbo, That doesnt look like heavy enough wire for 30amp? Looks from the photo like standard Romex wiring for 15amp circuit.

It is 10/2 w/g.

ON EDIT: I just went outside and photographed the cable sheathing. Here is the picture. It is hard to read, but says "AWG 10 CU 2 CDR WITH AWG 10 GROUND TYPE NM-B 600 VOLTS"

Lenny K wrote:
My original plan is to do as you suggested but I was looking for some options as it will be a real bear disconnecting the wires at the panel.
Decisions, decisions.

In the end I believe removing the wire from the panel will be the easier solution.

Similar to what SoundGuy and Bobbo did, mine is 30 amp, not 50, but the same principle. I used a portable Progressive protector. I did not want the hard wired version. I wanted to be able to remove the protector at will, without having to do any extra wiring. Or if I ever sell the camper, can take it with me.

My 30 foot umbilical cord is attached to a junction box. I actually left it attached to the junction box and simply cut the cord about 2 feet long. I then attached a regular 30 amp RV connector to the end. I then took the original 30 foot cord (now 28 feet long) and attached the opposite connector on it.

I now have a way to plug in the Progressive protector inside the camper. I simply shove the male plug out the trailer hole.

I can use the original (now 28 foot) cord and simply plug into the protector. Or use a different extension cord.

If I ever sell the camper, I can simply unplug the Progressive protector and plug back in the original cord.