Microlite Mike wrote:
BFL13 wrote:
The R manual suggests you can "zero" (as I call it) the AH counter by either draining the batt to zero or doing it when the batt is full. How stupid is that???? :)
This is another example of "advantage Victron".
A "Zero Current" calibration is as easy as disconnecting the negative cable from frame or negative bus then using zero current cal feature on App or meter itself.
Between adjusting Peukert Factor battery capacity in setup I've found my Victron to be extremely accurate when comparing the Ah use shown on meter (or app) after a set time with a known load.
for having a 500 amp shunt on it, its pretty darn accurate, like less then 1 amp accurate. and it zero's out when i hit the disconnect
at the end of the day, all care about is ah in and out, and the meter does it.
today ironically was my first real day using it (been on power the last 3 trips) and it did a nice job.
i re adjusted high v to 14.4 and its close enough on the % for me.
also has run time's at the current amperage, which is also useful.
for the cost vs the victron, it was worth it to me. yes i know i can tailor the victron, but i am not trying to squeeze the last 3% out of my battery, so for now it seems to work fine.
