Replace on-off light switches in RV - any cheaper choices

https://www.delcity.net/store/Carling-L!Series-!-Non!Illuminated/p_822843.h_822844

Carling L-Series Non-Illuminated Rocker Switches - SPST

The L-Series rocker switch from Carling is a sealed switch. It features IP67 certified sealed front panel components. Its design fits into standard mounting holes of, 1.734 x .867. The switches are vibration, shock, thermo shock, salt spray, and moisture resistant. This full size rocker is very popular in On-highway transportation vehicles. It is also commonly used in agricultural equipment and construction machinery.

20A, 4-14VDC.
Life: 100,000 cycles maintained. 50,000 cycles momentary (at rated current & voltage).
IP67 certified sealed front panel components.
Available in Single & Double Pole.
Uses standard mounting hole: 1.734" x .867".
Temperature Rating: -40°F - 185°F (-40°C - 85°C).

PRICEY!

20073391 SPST On-Off, .250 TABS, Non-Lit Carling Rocker (L11D1S001-AZZ00-000) (1 MIN)
18.56

The IP 67 designation means the switch is virtually waterproof.

When I replaced old 18W bulbs with LED of equivalent brightness, the current dropped to 0.4A per bulb. To turn 3 double domes like in RV will require 2.4A total. Residential switch is rated 15A. How bad can be in-rush current, to worry about this?

Only "T RATED" toggle switches work for home DC. Audible snap. But they went the way of the Brontosaur and Passenger Pigeon.

Most residential style switches are not rated for DC voltage. They will not handle the higher in rush from DC circuits.
I would look around your local auto parts stores for a similar switch.
Posters are correct in installing LED type lamps to reduce the loads.
I tried looking in Canada for parts stores, however didn't have much luck locating replacement switches. Search eluded that you have Carquest and Auto Zone but I don't remember seeing any.
You may need to make trip into US!

Almot wrote:
With all due respect, Mex - what "high amp disconnect"? Your battleship searchlights is a different story, but we are talking few amps per switch. Especially if he replaces trailer lights with LED.

Guilty as charged senor Almot :)

I should have titled my response as "General Comments About Switches" but failed to do so. My bad. Apologies.

Switch failure and/or short lifespan is a sore point with me. Especially rocker type switches. A attribute these problems to a very soft tension feeling of the switch. A switch that offers a definite "snap" when activated would help - but try and find a rocker switch that does this.

This is the reason why a few months ago I asked on this forum about "membrane switches" which would be used with PCB mount remote relays.

Four (or five?) different sources of rocker switches but they seems to last only about a year (or so) down here before they go psychotic. It's the environment, yes. But toggle switches especially good ones do not have this problem. A made-in-USA rocker switch with silver contacts? Been a fruitless search.

Hmm, maybe residential 120v switches are the way to go, i could always keep a few spares in the unlikely event that one gets fused. Amp draw won’t be high, they’re all LED.
I corrected the OP to reflect spelling error, indeed it’s the 12225 switch. Thanks.

I just went out to the RV and checked what current was being switched when I turned on my LED lights. I tried several different lights and the current draw was 0.3 to 0.4 amps. I also checked the bathroom exhaust fan which is also on the same type of switch and it drew 1.5A, but it is also on a timer that is usually used instead of the switch. I couldn't try incandescent lights since they have all been replaced by LEDs.

I am not at all concerned about the switches failing at the currents involved.

With all due respect, Mex - what "high amp disconnect"? Your battleship searchlights is a different story, but we are talking few amps per switch. Especially if he replaces trailer lights with LED.

I use "household" switches for 24vdc.

But they are "T" rated and I looked on the web awhile back and I cannot seem to find "T" rated switches anymore.

They would not be suitable for the OP.

The best switch for high amp disconnect is a mercury filled switch.
But good luck on that...

A snap action disconnect is second best. As the dial is twisted, you can feel the internal spring build up tension. Then it "snaps". The contacts separate faster than a human hand can respond. Crude but effective. The Borg has a 30-amp 5-position dual deck Electro-Switch on the AC. A no-arc connect and disconnect means cleaner make and break for the load as well as the switch.

Military grade switches are great. Finding them isn't.

Cole-Hersee rocker panel switches with silver contacts seemed to last longer than any other brand - but that was decades ago.

For light switches, I would not hesitate to use most any switch that looks like it would fit physically and has the right electrical connections and has current ratings that look reasonable.

Many switches are only rated for AC operation as switching DC loads is rather a harder job for a switch (because the zero crossings of an AC waveform tend to break any arcing that might be occurring). It's not unheard of for AC switches to fail in DC use with the contacts being welded together and the switch stuck on. For a light switch, that's not a huge concern; the result would just be a light that's stuck on. For something that may be safety related or rather more damaging if the switch failed, say an engine kill switch, I'd be a little more selective.