Forum Discussion

joebedford's avatar
joebedford
Nomad II
Nov 20, 2014

Re&Re underbelly cover

There have been times I've need to get into the underbelly of my 5er. The underbelly cover has to be removed. At least half the time the heads of the self tapping screws snap off because the screws are rusted in place.

That's OK I suppose but I wonder what to do when replacing the screws.

What I have been doing so far is using new self-tapping screws in different locations but I started to wonder if I'm weakening the frame (12" I-beam) by putting more holes in it?

I'm guessing probably not, but I thought I'd ask for WOTL (wisdom of the list).
  • lightfoot's avatar
    lightfoot
    Explorer III
    Nov 20, 2014
    I have been doing the same thing, using stainless screws for replacement and the same holes. If one breaks off, I drill it out and replace with the stainless screw. I would guess that one or more extra 1/8" holes in the frame would not do any damage to it. I have also been replacing all the screws in the slides with stainless screws as the OEM ones have been rusting an breaking off. Those that break off get a new screw added next to the original as drilling out the original is not as easy as it is in the frame.
  • downtheroad's avatar
    downtheroad
    Explorer
    Nov 20, 2014
    Use the same screw locations over and over, but use stainless steel screws.
  • LarryJM's avatar
    LarryJM
    Explorer II
    Nov 20, 2014
    joebedford wrote:
    There have been times I've need to get into the underbelly of my 5er. The underbelly cover has to be removed. At least half the time the heads of the self tapping screws snap off because the screws are rusted in place.

    That's OK I suppose but I wonder what to do when replacing the screws.

    What I have been doing so far is using new self-tapping screws in different locations but I started to wonder if I'm weakening the frame (12" I-beam) by putting more holes in it?

    I'm guessing probably not, but I thought I'd ask for WOTL (wisdom of the list).


    OR do what I did in THIS ALBUM

    Larry
  • Chris_Bryant's avatar
    Chris_Bryant
    Explorer II
    Nov 20, 2014
    I would use thread cutting machine screws, not sheet metal drill point screws.
  • BFL13's avatar
    BFL13
    Explorer II
    Nov 20, 2014
    For smaller area access if you know where the thing is you are trying to get at, you can just cut a flap in the underbelly and fold it back to do the job, then tape the flap back in place.

    I have used black Gorilla tape on one flap I made that is still holding after six months, and red vapour barrier tape on another that is still good after five years so far.
  • Dave_H_M's avatar
    Dave_H_M
    Explorer II
    Nov 20, 2014
    I do like BFL. Why remove the whole thing if you can cut an access hole. Just did all three of the cable controlled dump valves this summer.

    As long as you get it sealed up to your satisfaction, who cares how beautiful it is under there.
  • dougrainer's avatar
    dougrainer
    Nomad
    Nov 20, 2014
    They make a zipper flap that has adhesive to adhere to the underbelly. You take the flap and cut to the size of the zipper and then use the tape to glue to the underbelly. OEM's use to install these years ago to gain access to slide motors or holding tank recessed valves so you did not have to drop the underbelly. Doug

    http://mobilehomedepotmi.com/mh_catalog2/trap-flap.html
  • joebedford's avatar
    joebedford
    Nomad II
    Nov 21, 2014
    On my old RV that had a sealed underbelly, I met someone who had the same unit without a sealed underbelly. I did a full survey and took lots of photos of his RV's underbelly. When I had to do a repair on mine, I knew where to cut.

    My current rig (Voltage 3950) I don't have access to one without an underbelly cover.

    For you guys who use stainless screws, do you use self-tapping or do you use the existing threads of the original broken screw?

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