Residential fridge

Just a quick tidbit of "stuff" I found inside and above fridge compartment. To fully explain, in the motorhome a large 12 volt fuse center is directly above and my main 120 volt circuit center is directly to the side. Anyways I found a bundle of extra wires including a 20 amp extra circuit already with a breaker, (un labeled spot on my main panel) but noted in panel manual as being a future. There is two or three additional 12 volt circuits bundled, an extra RG-6 cable run to the front and one other cable I haven't ID'ed yet. Amazing what you find when your not looking. :-)

Thank you, I think you summed it up very well! An awning did come to mind also.....I'll check on that also although by placing insulating 'material in before the install, I should be able to get a fairly thick base....probably 4-5 inches if I want. Thanks

First: Let me see if I understand the question correctly:

You are comitted to changing to a Residential Type Unit

The unit you have chosen has the condenser on the rear

You want to blow air across the condenser to improve effiecency.

Should you place the fans much like you would on a Dometic?

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If I got it right so far, the short answer is YES,, I would very likely either fan at the INTAKE (Bottom) blowing in or the Exhaust (TOP) Blowing out.

NOTE: A proper awning with optional sun shade sheilding it from the rays of Old Sol might just do more for you than the fan. But.. the fan is easier.

I can't believe I wrote out a long winded post that didnt show up. OK, so in a nutshell, I can use my current inverter for power, I need to seal off and insulate the outside wall, I need to provide venting to the inside on the motorhome and I can spent 400-1300. Dollars and hope for the best knowing reliability will be an issue no matter the choice. Without Major work, the Haier unit is the only unit workable in the space getting the most cf so I'm pretty much locked into that unit. Would it still be advisable to exhaust with the help of fans , thus pulling conditioned motorhome air into the compartment and exiting as before through the roof vent? I would add venting from interior to accomplish this. Once again, thank you all for your comments.

mena661 wrote:

hypoxia wrote:
The new residentials are not the same critter of the past that lasted for 30 years.

Ours is 11 years old, works like a champ. My co-workers is 15 years old, no probs there either.

My 11 year Norcold 1200 also works great as well as my 20 year and my other 3 year old residential.

My point is: Refrigerators of all types fail, some fail more often than others, don't expect to have a trouble free refrigerator regardless of the type. The OP is interested in a 10 CF which I would never recommend based on my limited experience.

There are a bunch of pros on the forum, specifically Grainer, Bryant and Landry as well as others who may or may not agree with my opinion. If & when they speak, I would listen to them and disregard anything that you or I have to say.

I used my Heart 458 2500 MSW inverter with my GE Profile fridge for about 10 years without issue. I recently upgraded to a 3000W (150 amp battery charger!) TSW just 'cause I got a good deal on one.

Acampingwewillgo wrote:
I'm listening? Sounds like an interesting idea...guess I'll do a quick search.

Nova Kool RFU9000
Compressor Model Refrigerator / Freezers

hypoxia wrote:
The new residentials are not the same critter of the past that lasted for 30 years.

Ours is 11 years old, works like a champ. My co-workers is 15 years old, no probs there either.

Interesting to read this just before I have to go look at the large residential next door as it is not cooling. I also have had a little experience with the 10CF refrigerators & would not ever rely on one other than as a bar reefer. The ones I have worked on do not use the same controls as the larger reefers and are not what I wold consider to be reliable. Last night another friend was telling me he just replaced his 6 year old large residential which had failed.

I don't do this for a living and have very limited experience but find it laughable when I read stories about the reliability of residentials. The new residentials are not the same critter of the past that lasted for 30 years.

I did see that model at Home Depot and at the time, prior to removing my current unit, I thought it seemed a better choice too but after measuring more precisely upon removal , that extra 5/16 in width would leave me with even less side clearance. Thank you for the info!

One good thing about the Haier HA10TG20SB is it is in stock at most Lowes.
In my search for a residential fridge I came across some other choices. If you can wait for delivery. Look at the Frigidaire.
You will want to close off the fridge from outside air. Then provide air circulation into the motorhome. Most of the small apartment size have temperature limits. Many are between 50° and 90°. These temperatures from outside are not good. The Frigidaire I linked has lower and higher temperature than any of the others. You can download the Frigidaire manual at the site I linked. You may want to go to Lowes and read the Haier manual from the one they have in stock. Check out there clearances.
I was going to install a residential fridge when we got home from our winter trip. But the Dometic failed before we made it home. Had the Dometic repaired with a new cooling unit for the same amount it would have cost to install the residential. Best part of the repair was I did not have to do any work other than show up at the repair facility. 3 hours later we were on our way with a working fridge.