Restart inverter

I honestly think one of the biggest stresses is start up on these inverters.
Best to leave them on or leave them off. Seems odd that you are needing to remove DC power so frequently. Mine could go a couple years.

Have you tried leaving Cotek disconnected overnight? Maybe next time.

time2roll wrote:
Has Cotek always done this or getting worse? Seems almost defective or dying.

Getting worse. I have installed a spst knife switch on the positive. The spark was so bad it was starting to destroy the eye connector and the busbar.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/50W-100W-0-01-5k-Ohm-Watt-Shell-Power-Aluminum-Housed-Case-Wirewound-Resistor/182880437622?hash=item2a94860576:m:mvM4eHzzstbp3f6b6vEHGfw:rk:10:pf:0

Two resistors

Two momentary engine starting pushbutton switches.

Two circuits

Inverter positive to chassis negative

https://www.ebay.com/itm/50W-100W-0-01-5k-Ohm-Watt-Shell-Power-Aluminum-Housed-Case-Wirewound-Resistor/182880437622?hash=item2a94860576%3Cimg%20src=

the other

Inverter positive to battery positive

You need to have the big cable battery positive disconnected on the boot down and boot up.

Controlled capacitor fill and discharge. Note the word CONTROLLED.

From reading all your posts you are sharp enough to figure this out :)

RAMPING inrush always extends service life of capacitors.

The manual discharge deflects quandaries with complex partially nulled control circuits. Call it a manual reboot.

A three ampere in/out bleed is excellent a 150 watt capacity resistor will work fine for this type of limited duty

FYI the big spark is nothing to be concerned about, that's the internal stiffening caps charging up. use a suitably rated ignition protected (sealed) disconnect switch to make/break the connection, rather than just the bolt on terminals.

along the lines of BFL13's theory, could be some sort of microcontroller / processor that has its own backup capacitor, and that needs to drain completely before the reboot.

Has Cotek always done this or getting worse? Seems almost defective or dying.

Similar action to a converter that needs a restart to go back to its charging profile start. You need to let the capacitors "bleed" off their voltage before restarting. Takes a little time to bleed it all off. You also get that spark on reconnecting, which is them reloading AFAIK.

Various reasons.. all of the above.

How is the initial 48v disconnect happening that requires reboot? low voltage shut down? Scheduled maintenance?