I’m looking to buy six 24 volt 60 cell panels for my toyhauler project. I’d like to get a structurally robust panel that can take the beating of a mobile application.Of course I’d like the highest wattage possible but I’m more concerned with the panel’s structural integrity than I am with its wattage. Additionally, I’d like to hear your opinion as to the cell type, Mono or Poly.I’ve been looking at the SolarWorld Sunmodule 275 & 280 as well as the Kyocrea 255 KD over at NAW&S but have yet to decide which way I’d like to roll. http://www.solar-electric.com/products-onsale/Are there any others I should be looking at?I’d really like to hear what you guys think before I make the purchase.As always, thanks so kindly for your time and effortsCee

Add angle aluminum to the long sides to stiffen the whole assembly. I would go poly and MPPT

Never read a post where a solar panel was damaged in the normal course of enjoying the RV life.Panels really seem like a generic commodity. Get the power and dimensions that fit the project without too much worry of damage.

Here is another place to look for panels: 0.65 cents per watt

avg working voltage is 30vavg amps 9aavg output using PWM 126w (14v*9a) i said avg not max, which might bust 130wyou will need an MPPT controller to really use any of those panelsormultiple panels of a lower wattage if you want to spend less on the controller

With that much wattage I would be looking to go at least 24 volts for power storage.

Robust 60 cell panel for Toyhauler? | Good Sam Community

29 Replies

westend
Explorer
Apr 20, 2015
BoonHauler wrote:
Westend:

Yes, I plan to post the installation here when I get around to it but it will be awhile though.

As for the Clevis Pins, I see Fastenal has a good supply of them......
I seem to remember I got a whole assortment of different sized pins at Harbor Freight.
Almot
Explorer III
Apr 20, 2015
Yes, too small and too confined space for a TS 60. Too little clearance on top.

Poly vs Mono - toss a coin.

OP linked panels - good brands, but you can get off-brand cheaper. I would choose brand over price, $200-250 difference (for 3 panels) is less important than quality, considering long-term project.

Strengthening the panels - I wouldn't worry. Even if tilted. The weakest spot in titled array is the roof where it's anchored with #10 screws into 5/8" plywood rather than into rafters. Tilted panel in heavy wind creates a lot of stress on anchor screws along the tilted side. That is, if your roof is EPDM over plywood.

In fact, I wouldn't bother at all with tilt. 750W flat is (usually) enough to live offgrid without a generator. You're going to have 1,500W.

2 strings on 2 controllers - maybe I've missed something, but with 24V system you wouldn't have to install this second controller.

Just my 2 cents.
BoonHauler
Explorer
Apr 20, 2015
Westend:

Yes, I plan to post the installation here when I get around to it but it will be awhile though.

As for the Clevis Pins, I see Fastenal has a good supply of them......
BoonHauler
Explorer
Apr 18, 2015
westend wrote:
BoonHauler wrote:
Westend:

I designed a mounting system very simular to yours, looks good BTW!
Thanks, I figured you had something in mind and a step up from my cobbling. Just posted it to maybe light a spark.

Are you going to post the installation on RVnet? looking forward to it, if you do.

Thanks for posting the pics, it helps everyone and as I often say "a picture is worth a thousand words".

BTW, where did you get the 1/4" pins? I've been looking for a source for those and have yet to find one.

Cee
westend
Explorer
Apr 18, 2015
BoonHauler wrote:
Westend:

I designed a mounting system very simular to yours, looks good BTW!
Thanks, I figured you had something in mind and a step up from my cobbling. Just posted it to maybe light a spark.

Are you going to post the installation on RVnet? looking forward to it, if you do.
BoonHauler
Explorer
Apr 18, 2015
Westend:

I designed a mounting system very simular to yours, looks good BTW!
westend
Explorer
Apr 18, 2015
I made this 4-way tilting mechanism for my 235W module. It incorporates a cross frame in the middle and the tilting struts store inside the mount brackets. In retrospect, a simple one way or two way would accomplish most of what I want without the additional work or material. It is all made of 6061 new aluminum stock except for the four hinges which are SS.

Upside down orientation of the mount and stored strut, end section:

The module with brackets is pinned into the roof mounts with 1/4" pins.

I'm sure you have a mounting scheme already thought out but what I figured out is that using rails and mounting into them is probably the best.

Like JIm, I found that the frames are not all that. The aluminum frame on my module is a doubled and formed aluminum with light gauge material. It is probably adequate for the job. The good news is that these solar modules are built with really strong acetate and the fit and finish is good.
JiminDenver
Explorer II
Apr 18, 2015
One thing I have noticed from my older panels to the newer is the frames. The oldest have hardy frames that don't allow ant flexing as I move them. The newer panels are lighter with less substantial frames that while they will be fine mounted, flex some as I move them around. I believe this is a cost cutting measure to deal with lower panel prices.
CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Apr 18, 2015
You're going to ride a bicycle on your panels? :B

Actually I'm not surprised given the quality of your custom hauler. Wish I had 275W panels.
BoonHauler
Explorer
Apr 18, 2015
So, after much research I decided to go with Solarworld Sunmodule 'Protect' series panels.

I ended up getting the 275 watt version for $340 a panel, pretty good price from my research.

SolarWorld Sunmodule international testing standards for proven quality

SolarWorld Sunmodule Protect Solar Panel Trial Bike Demonstration

When I get the installation started I'll update the thread.