Roof membrane , different replacement!

I replaced my 5 year old failed membrane rubber roof with This 2 years ago. If you search for my posts in early 2016 you should find lots of info.

I will never ever have another rubber roof longer than it takes to have it sprayed. And don't believe the 10-12 rubber roof warranty. I was offered $225.00 total compensation under my "warranty".

PM me for more details, but look at my posts first. 2 years later I'm sitting here right now under hard rain and not a single caulking joint or the rubber to leak.

The fiberglass material on RVs is called Filon. You'll need to remove everything that penetrates the roof and work it like Tyvek on siding. It gets glued down and rolled out. After it adheres, go around with a laminate trimming router and cut out the openings.

It’s important to me to be able to walk on the roof. I might go up with s broom to sweep off debris before retracting the slides (which also have rubber roofs BTW) or to check any number of things. I wonder how well a metal or fiberglass roof would mix with some morning dew. I might come down sooner then planned. :(

wilber1 wrote:
Wha’s The matter with rubber and why are you changing the roof on a five year old unit?

It leaks. I've had 2 different people work on it and it is trash! It leaks around the front A/C, nothing inside yet but the screws on the light fixtures are rusty. The roof appears to be sagging around the unit and the wood is soft on the left side. I've taped it about 3 times and the flange around the A/C keeps cutting the membrane. I think it's puffing up from air tumbling while it's getting towed. The stuff has wrinkles sometimes and sometimes it doesn't.

edatlanta wrote:
I replaced my 5 year old failed membrane rubber roof with This 2 years ago. If you search for my posts in early 2016 you should find lots of info.

I will never ever have another rubber roof longer than it takes to have it sprayed. And don't believe the 10-12 rubber roof warranty. I was offered $225.00 total compensation under my "warranty".

PM me for more details, but look at my posts first. 2 years later I'm sitting here right now under hard rain and not a single caulking joint or the rubber to leak.

I've been thinking about this too but I know how to lay glass and I know it'll be right when I finish. If it isn't right I only have myself to blame.

fj12ryder wrote:
There have been several people who have replaced their rubber roof with a different material. It tends to run several thousand dollars, so it just depends on how badly you want a different roof.

If I don't I'll be making payments on something that's in the junkyard or the A/C is going to fall on me and kill me.

hammer21661, “IF , you have a fairly expensive rv and plan on keeping it a long time.... this may be something to check out. This method is expensive, but IMO worth it, if you meet the opening disclosure. FlexArmor!! The application requires everything be removed from roof, any roof repairs completed, all mounting hardware ( for ac’s, satellite systems, vents,etc.) put back on roof, then the material is sprayed on. Once done there are “no” seams/joints, and “no” perforations through the roof. It carries a “lifetime” warranty. There are videos on YouTube showing how it is done, the strength of the material, and actual application process. If nothing else...the video is informative. Technology is evolving almost daily on many things...RV roofing is also evolving.

If you decide to go with aluminum don't use sheets up there. Use a one piece seamless to cover the roof in one shot. Also I would recommend white as those old mill finnish aluminum roofs on our older rv's were hot in the summer. Aluminum roofs are noiser in a downpour.
The more lap joints/holes and screws up there only increases the chance for more maintenance and better chance for water intrusion (leaks).

hammer21661 wrote:
Has anyone ripped off the rubber roof and fiberglassed it like a boat? Or maybe I should use aluminum. Like 8x20 sheets so there is only an edge seam and one in the middle? Any thoughts?

Fiberglass is definitely a DIY job. Not easy, but doable.

Likely it will take 2 or even 3 sheets of 'glass (NOT chop strand or roving).

Yes, it will add weight, but not really that much. There are lots of YouTube videos about boat people replacing a deck/floor. The biggest downside to fiberglass is that it does have to be painted to prevent UV damage.

Aluminum would be better, but it is difficult to source in large sheets and probably requires more work to install. If you go this way, you need stainless steel screws with rubber washer. Use butyl tape under/around all seems. a properly installed aluminum roof will last a long, LONG time !

Remember most leaks occur around seems/joint. Roof protrusion need proper flashing and caulking. I would replace the side molding with RainKap

Read this !

Replace all screws with stainless steel.

I’ve heard people talk about something called Bus Kote. I have no personal experience with this product but thought it would be helpful to mention it -
Bus Kote