Rv ac question

Leaks and Compressor are the two primary reasons to replace an A/C. I don't know which is the more common, but I can say that although compressors DO fail, it isn't that commonplace. Do a poll; you'll find rooftop A/C's 10+, even 20+, years old. They've hopefully been cleaned, maybe had a fan motor or capacitor replaced, but still running.

If a Capacitor was $200, I'd say scrap the A/C now. But when you can get one for $15-30, or a meter to test yours for about the same price, I really wish you'd look at the Run Capacitor.

Said it before, will try again: A Start ASSIST (Hard Start Kit) is an Assist, it will not overcome a completely failed RUN capacitor.

57amps is about normal for LRA (lock rotor amps) for a high head pressure hot compressor, it only lasts for a few seconds or less

no help with a new start kit,, your compressor is SHOT

yes you can install any RV A/C brand you want (they all fit the 14" hole), just be aware of any difference in controls or thermostat options

roof air with built in controls and NO wall thermostat are the easiest to replace

if yours usess a wall thermostat, get something that works with that control
or get the new control when you get the new A/C, be sure the wiring in the wall has enough wires/connections to work with the new control

I just had a compressor locked up first time I tried to use it. Brand new from factory, and had to send me a brand new unit.

Compressor (and Fan too, for that matter) use RUN capacitors. The one for the compressor would be around 45-mfd and the fan around 7.5-mfd. Forget the fan for now, it's working. A hard start kit (capacitor around 100-mfd and some kind of control device to get it out of circuit once compressor starts) may be ADDED TO the RUN (45-mfd) capacitor, but if the RUN capacitor is bad, the Compressor will sit in Locked Rotor Amps (LRA - marked on the compressor label). I would not give up on the compressor (and therefore the whole A/C) till the RUN capacitor is tested or swapped with a known good/new one.

Can I use any 15000 Bru rooftop ac or does it have to be another coleman?

Should be able to use Dometic or Coleman 15K. I have friend who's happy with the Coleman high efficiency 13.6K BTU roof airs-if that size will do for you.

Never tripped breaker but it does make generator cut all power to the whole rv. Tried shore power but only had 30 amps available so tried running just that 1 ac and still nothing. Fan blows but compressor only cycles for 2-3 seconds on shore power then shuts off for several minutes then attempts to cycle again. On 30 amp power we did trip rv breakers

Well I put on a hard start today and it made no difference at all so I'm going to assume compressor is shot. Will order a new ac and add hard start to that one so it's easier on generator. Can I use any 15000 Bru rooftop ac or does it have to be another coleman?

Big Katuna wrote:
It could be a bad start cap. Take the shroud off then remove the sheet metal cover where the wires go in and take a look.

I 2nd the start cap. If it isn't this, it's getting serious.

Brian

It could be a bad start cap. Take the shroud off then remove the sheet metal cover where the wires go in and take a look.

Did buddy also check voltage?