RV electrical
We just built a new house and I had a 20amp breaker put in. Went with a 20amp because the electrician said that should run 95% of RV's just fine, including AC... hindsight tells me I should have gone ...
Forum Discussion
astraelraen wrote:I see that the neutrals may not be proper seated under the screws. I prefer them to be all the way thru the bar then tighten the screw down. Just my observation.teddyu wrote:astraelraen wrote:
Everything would work in this scenario above UNTIL I turn on the AC. The AC compressor seems to trip the GFCI (not the breaker) everytime. Maybe my compressor is bad? If I turn on just the fan it will run fine.
Anyway, looks like I purchased an electrical gremlin. I will have more info in the morning.
Don't think you bought a gremlin, just a bad AC. If possible, try and run only the AC from a non-GFCI source. See if the AC will run. If it runs, the compressor isn't bad. Maybe OK to run on a campground pedstal only. AC units have start capicators that can go bad. Some have condensate heaters.
The other thought is that maybe everything is OK and with the sum of ALL the small leakage currents on seperate circuits tripping the GFCI. In my garage, I have ONE dedicated non-GFCI receptacle just for the RV. Taking the chance that a GFCI trips when trying to keep the refeer running prior to a journey is a huge price to pay.
Most forums and blogs suggest that a non-GFCI circuit be use to power the RV. Remember, a GFCI is used to protect people, not equipment. JM2ยข...
Thanks for the tips. All my outlets in the garage are GFCI. I doubt I have an extension cord of reasonable gauge to get to a non-GFCI outlet.
I pulled out the electrical box in the camper and here is what I found. I have no idea what I'm looking at, does anyone see something out of the ordinary?
Electrical 1
Electrical 2
Electrical 3
