RV propane tank replacement

Thanks for the replies.
Much appreciated.
I will clean the bottom of the tank to see how severe the pitting is and discuss it with a propane distributor.
As pointed out, will likely end up painting it.

To All, thanks for the replies.
Much appreciated.

I will clean the bottom of the tank and try and get a handle on how deep, if any, the pitting is and then go from there.

Safe travels.

RedRollingRoadblock wrote:
I would contact a propane dealer, tell them your concerns and let them inspect it and make recommendations. A RV dealer likely would just R&R the tank.

I will second that advice.... And after a proper inspection by a qualified professional (NOT a gas station pump jockey but someone who certifies portable tanks at the minimum) you will likely find the advice to sandblast and re-paint is what is suggested.

Propane tanks are quite robust. Takes a lot of rust to damage them. Serious pitting in fact.. They generally do not need replacement. Just paint.

I am having a square tubing rack built for my toad. A full roof area job. When it is finished here's what I Plan to do:

Scuff it with 400-grit. Wipe it down with acetone. Apply two coats of RED Rust-O-Leum primer. After which two coats of Rust-O-Luem black bed liner. All is available at Wal-Mart.

I don't know why RED Rust-O-Leum primer sticks so well to bare or lightly rusted steel but it does. It makes a joke out of other metal primers (even Cold Galvanizing paint). The bed liner is maybe the toughest paint I have ever seen besides DuPont Imron. I like it because it dries hard. Not gooey like asphalt based undercoating.

I've had good luck using twisted-bristle wire brush attachments. Big ones for 1/2" drills. The straight bristle jobs seem to melt before my very eyes.

WEAR FULL EYE GOOGLES!
From painfull experience I can tell you for some evil reason rust flakes will embed in the eye seeming easier than anything else. Requires a expensive trip to the opthmoligist. Regular safety glasses don't cut-it here. Use fully enclosed googles and keep them on afterwards while you wash your face and hair. It's easier to wear a cap. I cannot emphasize the eye protection enough. I was ignorant the 1st time, learned slow. It took until the 3rd agonizing doctor visit to pound this into my head (that glasses didn't work and debris in the hair made wearing googles alone insufficient protection.

Years ago I was told by my local Coop to wire brush the tank, then mask off half for painting. However they recommended for the lower half fo the tank to use "spray undercoating". I di and it lasted for years with no more rock chips or damage.

As others have said: Wire brush it off, paint it if you must, and worry about other things! (or not) I highly recommend the NOT part :)

The likelihood that you will experience a rupture is incalculably slim.

The permanently installed ASME tanks used in motorhomes, etc, have a much thicker "skin" than the portable DOT cylinders used for TT's, BBQ's, etc. That said, even the portable cylinders have an allowable "pit depth" for rust when being recertified.

There is no end of life dates on horizontal tanks. Don't talk to a propane dealer, call the area distributor and ask them who they recommend because a suprising number of them don't know. I had a dealer once that refused to fill my tank because of very light surface rust, and wanted to certify the tank. I called the distributor who knew this guy was paranoid of his insurance company and just suggested going elsewhere. To the tank: I brushed and painted it myself

I also would be somewhat surprised if it really needed replacement; it's not a typical need for permanently mounted tanks. However, if it was indeed at the end of its life, I would just plan to use up the existing propane and then replace it once it was empty. It's obviously not leaking presently since it is full of propane.

I would contact a propane dealer, tell them your concerns and let them inspect it and make recommendations. A RV dealer likely would just R&R the tank.