OB offered a solution, of course, it wouldn't have helped for *removing* the axle.
Can be difficult if axle is low to the ground due to a flat.
Bad info for newbies - reader may jack "somewhere else" under the axle, with long lasting negative results.
Some prefer the roll-up method for changing flats - no jack required.
Most trlr and axle mfgrs recommend jacking under the frame - it's a "CYA" - which you can decide if it applies to them, you - or both.
I use a simple variation of MEX's theme for jacking under the frame (which I prefer, anyway).
Use your bottle jack anywhere on the frame (no set locations) -
Cheap and easy:
For the bottle jack - the hunk of 1/4 inch plate - say 6" x 6".
Attach a chunk of 3/4" or 5/8" plywood - with a hole just slightly larger than the ram. (keeps the ram centered in the plate).
Next level:
As above, use a short piece of pipe welded to the plate to center the ram.
Add a couple of pieces of steel to the plate (topside) - which are slightly wider than the frame (and/or the frame you may have next time).
Cribbing under the frame is *always* a good idea for things like removing both wheels/tires on *one* side, or crib *both* sides for changing axles, etc.
For one tire/wheel removal (flats or repairs) jack under the frame with tow vehicle attached, in park, p/brake set - limits movement.
Driving onto a couple of 2x6s or 2x8s with the good tire/wheel helps.
(If it were to come off the jack - it's not going down very far)
BTW - lots of inexpensive bottle jack options at HF.
As well as short or long ram 12T...
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